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Real puzzle, front end mystery noise

I dont want to start a new thread, so:

HUb REBUILD PARTS:

What brands seem to work the best these trucks?

Ill be doing ball joints (U&L), hub/bearing, and U-joints.

I keep hearing spicer for the ball joints, on rock auto they have a spicer U/L combo for $50. Is this the part number i need: 706944X Dana Holding Group Spice Ball Joint Kit

What about the hub and u joint? suggestions?

I dont need indestructable top of the line, she doesnt get wheeled too hard or often. Shes more my daily/backcountry rig, but I stilll dont like to skimp on parts.
 
Do not get anything but Timken hubs.

Timken 513084

2224-05190028-1122485.jpg
 
Timken or SKF hubs
Locally at Auto Zone or NAPA, or your choice of online
Spicer 5-760X axle shaft u-joints
locally at Car Quest, NAPA can get them, your Spicer dealer, or your choice of online
I am a fan of Spicer ball joints. I had MOOG's that failed in less than 30,000 miles. Factory Spicers lasted about 10X as long.

If your hubs & u-joints are good you may want to leave them in if you're trying to save money. True it all has to come out to do the ball joints, but once you pull the ball joints and put it all back with anti-seize the hubs and shafts come out easily.

Id help you out with this work if you were closer.
 
Now that im going to do it myself ill be saving myself enough money to buy these parts 4x over, so im just doing them all while im in there.
 
Tip on u-joints: I find that u-joints come out much easier if you spray them with penetrant the night before. First time I did them without and needed heavy blows with a 5 lb hammer. With penetrant they tap out with with a 2.5 lb hammer. You can press them back in with the ball joint press.
 
XJTowerDog said:
Weird you mention the moog thing too. I just had a tie rod end fail in less than 10k miles, brand new moog.
Click to expand...
That is one of the screwy things about my driveway: Perfectly good parts go the shite, soon as you pull in. :anon:

After you left, I started thinking you could hold off on the Unit Bearings, like Brian (md21722) said. You will need money for a real mechanic, soon as that rear differential gets louder than the radio. :shhh:
 
When the diff gets louder ill just get a better stereo :laugh2:

Saving money on the bearings for now, thats a pretty simple job anyway when the bearings actually go.

Mikes right, my diff will need attention sooner than i would like. Not really sure where the blue wire is for that bomb, so only a matter of time.

Ball joints and U-joints on the way, time to start spraying her down with PB.
 
Ok, im putting this up there as an unexplained jeep mystery since MD and Hyphoids jeeps both make the same hollow rattling over what are not even bumps, just imperfections in the road.

Ball joints and U joints are new, she still clunks.


Anybody elses jeep do this?
 
Lets talk brake pad reatining clips. Two per side, and are they the same top and bottom? Ive seen a dozen pics of what i think is the setup, my calipers dont have them and i have autozone pads in.

If i saw the correct setup, they span the width of the caliper and rest on the pads little knuckles right?

Anyone have solid part numbers for raybestos pads and the ratining clips?
 
On my 01 XJ (the one silver one) I have never had a clunk and don't use the retainer clips that come with my Auto Zone or NAPA brake pads. I'd suggest the NAPA Adaptive One or keep using the Duralast pads.

Part of me wonders if my 97 XJ (red jeep) clunk isn't something like the steering box. If I push and pull on the pitman arm I do get a clunk. I have a spare box ready to go in.
 
I think the clips were used on '89 and older XJs: Unit bearings are different, knuckles are different, pads are different...
 
When I was under it, i saw slight lateral movement of the Pittman Shaft. I attribute the "clunk-clunk" to the (already trashed) Moog Tie Rod End.
 
Clunk found guys, and I really appreciate all the suggestions.

Brought home my wide mouth spud wrench to get some monkey grip on the control arms, and voila, the passenger side upper control arms lock nut was a quarter turn loose. I couldnt get the right torque on it with my channies.

Took her out for a spin and shes toight like a tiga.

As a Tower Climber, i'm dumbfounded I missed that, i'm OCD about nuts being tight.
 
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