• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Plumbing an aux. trans cooler correctly

Yes, volume & capacity are increased with the addition of a cooler, but heat only increases volume, and that is what you said.
That's not what I said. I said adding a cooler, while keeping the radiator in the loop, will add fluid capacity, which is 100% factual. Yes, volume with increase with thermal expansion, but that's not at all what I was talking about.

There's a difference between spreading inaccurate information and misreading accurate information.
 
That's not what I said. I said adding a cooler, while keeping the radiator in the loop, will add fluid capacity, which is 100% factual. Yes, volume with increase with thermal expansion, but that's not at all what I was talking about.

There's a difference between spreading inaccurate information and misreading accurate information.

That is not what you said...but it don't matter. It is also what I said.....but again, it don't matter. Nothing I or anyone says will get you to realize you just might be wrong.

So, I'll say it for you...you're right, and I am wrong.

I won't bore you with my experience(s) and/or qualifications, but I do have a clue or two, I am just tired of trying to help you get one too.

So have a nice day..................................
 
Right or wrong I have used this theory on aux trains coolers ,if you put It on the line from trans to rad it lowers fluid temp to radiator thus reducing load on engine cooling system. If you put it on line from rad to trans it lowers fluid temp to trans thus reducing trans temp. I don't know how large a cooler would have to be to bypass the stock cooler as it is a fluid to fluid not an air to fluid.
 
Right or wrong I have used this theory on aux trains coolers ,if you put It on the line from trans to rad it lowers fluid temp to radiator thus reducing load on engine cooling system. If you put it on line from rad to trans it lowers fluid temp to trans thus reducing trans temp. I don't know how large a cooler would have to be to bypass the stock cooler as it is a fluid to fluid not an air to fluid.

Like I said, there's really no right or wrong way, it depends on what you want it to do and the climate where you live.

I've always used the biggest cooler I can find (usually 24-28k gvwr rated), and just bypassed the cooler.

To use it properly (ie heat up & cool down both) you'd need a t-stat bypass valve to send it thru the cooler only when it gets to a certain temp. That way, you benefit from heating the fluid up quickly all the time, and from cooling it down only when needed.

If you live where it gets cold enough to need the heating feature, put it between the rad & trans on the return side, but keep in mind, any heat put into the fluid from the rad is likely gonna be removed by the cooler.

If you put it on the inlet side, then any cooling by the cooler will likely be removed by the rad to some degree.

Yes, the rad cooler is fluid to fluid, but the fluid isn't that cold that is removing the heat (it's well above air temp), and the volume isn't that much.
 
I plumbed my B&M from the top. I'm not certain why. I think I read somewhere any air bubbles will rise more easily go towards the return line.

Anyway the install was easy as all I needed to do was cut the supply line snap-lock fitting and secure the supply hose with clamps the lower port..

Then install a hose for the cooler on the OE metal line (top port).

B&M recommends mounting their aluminum stacked plate SuperCoolers with the ports up or to the side.

http://www.4wd.com/aux_incl/pdf.ashx?pdf=B-M_70268_INS_1.pdf&line=B/M

I have one of the smaller ones that's 1.5 inches thick. Can't remember the exact BTU I think it's around ~13,000. It does have the low temperature bypass valve which restricts oil flow until the oil reaches op temperatures.

Installed in front of the aux. fan. I remember when first installed overall engine coolant temps were reduced by ~1 to ~2 degrees.
 
when I started wheeling my XJ more than the running the occasional rutted road, I installed two temp gauges so I could see the intake and the outflow temperature. Probably overkill, but it also looks cool:cool:

When i first installed them them on the stock setup, it was normal for me to see 180+ degree's even on cooler days and 200+ when offroading even on moderate stuff.

After reading here that heat is the killer of AW4s, I wanted to avoid that possibility, so I installed a hayden trans cooler on the drivers side in front of the electric fan. I kept the stock routing, just adding the hayden inline.

Now I am regularly below the 150 mark and extremely rarely ever see the outflow side (line going from the trans to the cooler) higher than 180 and when I do see this, I usually see a 25 - 30 degree temp difference between the outflow and intake temp sensors.



Here is a picture of my gauge setup before the trans cooler addition.

transgauges.jpg
 
when I started wheeling my XJ more than the running the occasional rutted road, I installed two temp gauges so I could see the intake and the outflow temperature. Probably overkill, but it also looks cool:cool:

When i first installed them them on the stock setup, it was normal for me to see 180+ degree's even on cooler days and 200+ when offroading even on moderate stuff.

After reading here that heat is the killer of AW4s, I wanted to avoid that possibility, so I installed a hayden trans cooler on the drivers side in front of the electric fan. I kept the stock routing, just adding the hayden inline.

Now I am regularly below the 150 mark and extremely rarely ever see the outflow side (line going from the trans to the cooler) higher than 180 and when I do see this, I usually see a 25 - 30 degree temp difference between the outflow and intake temp sensors.



Here is a picture of my gauge setup before the trans cooler addition.

transgauges.jpg

That's exactly what i want to do, nice gauges and pod you have there.
I am planing to buy those gauges from autometer but im afraid to do so coz the sender unit and fitting are installed on the trans oil pan right?
How did you install the sending units, any write-up for that please?
 
That's exactly what i want to do, nice gauges and pod you have there.
I am planing to buy those gauges from autometer but im afraid to do so coz the sender unit and fitting are installed on the trans oil pan right?
How did you install the sending units, any write-up for that please?

When you get the gauges, the instructions will be pretty detailed. Most will install inline on the cooler lines with a t-fitting and sender. Then you run the wires to the gauge and you're done.
 
I installed a single gauge and used a toggle to switch back and forth between output temperature and after cooler input temperature.

804441825e7b3b914f2875439bb8ee10.jpg


Sent from my LG G4 using TapaTalk
 
Yes but you used 2 t-fittings and 2 senders at the trans lines right?

Correct. I spliced one sender into the "out" line of the trans and the other into the "in" line of the trans, and the wires for each individual sender comes up to different poles of a DPST micro toggle.
Used two Dakota Digital SEN-04-11 manifolds from Summit.
 
When you get the gauges, the instructions will be pretty detailed. Most will install inline on the cooler lines with a t-fitting and sender. Then you run the wires to the gauge and you're done.

Yep, that is what I did. If you have a lifted jeep, makes it a bit easier to get to everything.
 
Back
Top