• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Need advice on LA or SA custom build

Yup, radius arms are fine ... if designed well they will work great on and off road.

As some other have said, you could most likely get an off-the-shelf kit for about the same money .... which isn't a bad idea .... but there is something to be said for working with a local fabricator to have custom stuff designed for your Jeep.

You've done your research and the guy seems to have a good reputation ... I say go for it!
 
Thanks guys. His whole philosophy is his stuff is built for the individual jeep. He also makes his stuff to be be daily driven and " there, Well the hell out of , drive it home". I like the idea of having a local fabricator that can give custom work and back his work up. He said it should be 100% compatible with most of the shelf upgrades but if not he can make it work.

I'll look into a set of full leaf packs, rusty has their sets for 169 bucks, Anyone have experience with their leaf packs?
 
The bastard pack doesn't cause the horrible ride people experience, the horrible shackle angle does. If he's even a decent fabricator, he could build you a set a shackle relocators to cure that issue. If he's fabbing it all custom, have him build the front in a 3 link configuration. 3 link is really no more work than a radius arm if you are building it, what makes radius arms popular is the bolt on aspect of aftermarket. If he is truly a fabricator, none of these minor changes will cost him much, but they will benefit you greatly.
 
I agree with ^^ Zach
Some things to consider..
FRAME STIFFENERS!! even if it ends up being a pavement pounder.. It will not only ride better, but keep it straight.
Consider a pair of OME leafs.
 
The bastard pack doesn't cause the horrible ride people experience, the horrible shackle angle does. If he's even a decent fabricator, he could build you a set a shackle relocators to cure that issue. If he's fabbing it all custom, have him build the front in a 3 link configuration. 3 link is really no more work than a radius arm if you are building it, what makes radius arms popular is the bolt on aspect of aftermarket. If he is truly a fabricator, none of these minor changes will cost him much, but they will benefit you greatly.

never had thought of that, ill bring it up. Not sure if he has ever built a true 3 link before, but i will ask him.

I agree with ^^ Zach
Some things to consider..
FRAME STIFFENERS!! even if it ends up being a pavement pounder.. It will not only ride better, but keep it straight.
Consider a pair of OME leafs.

I know he makes his own frame stiffeners, ill see how much he charges to make/install them.
 
Awesome, glad someone gave a ray of sunshine haha.

on the bastard packs, not sure if i've got an option with him on that. Might have to say leave out the bastard packs, and Ill use the extra Credit towards something else.

I THINK he gives new packs that he puts together himself, or atleast thats what the pic he sent me of another kit he put together suggested.

I just want to say that here on the webs, There are lots of rays of sunshine, but there is someone who will cast a shadow.

A lot of this is just personal preference. Either way you go I think you will be happy.
 
Okay, so after bringing up the 3-link and frame stiffener idea, two things came up.

First, he is glad I brought up the frame stiffeners now, the original crossmember wouldn't have worked, so he has to use a different one, no extra money for that.

Second, He CAN make the 3-link, however he doesnt think I need it right now, and his system can be upgraded later, for no more than what it would cost to do it now. So, im going to wait, and see how the radius arm setup performs for what I need, and go from there.

Any other suggestions? lol. Im starting to get a sneaky suspicion once I wheel this thing, I'm going to be hooked and want to do more and more. WHich is another reason why im wanting to go with him, its easier IMO to go to the original fabricator and say this is what I want it to do and have them tweak it, vs trying to tweak an off the shelf kit.
 
I just want to say that here on the webs, There are lots of rays of sunshine, but there is someone who will cast a shadow.

A lot of this is just personal preference. Either way you go I think you will be happy.

Thanks buddy. yeah, everyone will chime in with their .02 here on the internet. Lol. But, I take every suggestion to hear as im a newb to the jeep/SFA world. I've owned/built two prior lifted trucks, a ranger and an f150, but those are completely different beasts with the IFS.

So far, Im LOVING the simplicity and strength of the SFA

EDIT:

He just texted me back. He says to do a PROPER 3-link you need to cut into the floor for the upper link. Unless your doing a mid-arm 3-link? I have NO idea what any of that means :)
 
EDIT:

He just texted me back. He says to do a PROPER 3-link you need to cut into the floor for the upper link. Unless your doing a mid-arm 3-link? I have NO idea what any of that means :)

He's kind of right on that - to get the proper separation of the joints for the 3-link to function well. Sounds like he knows his stuff and knows his customer. Looks like the radius arm is right up your alley, and you can change it to 3-link later if you decide you need/want the better characteristics of the 3-link when it comes to steep hill climbs, where a radius arm is known to unload and cause some instability, esp without limit straps
 
He's kind of right on that - to get the proper separation of the joints for the 3-link to function well. Sounds like he knows his stuff and knows his customer. Looks like the radius arm is right up your alley, and you can change it to 3-link later if you decide you need/want the better characteristics of the 3-link when it comes to steep hill climbs, where a radius arm is known to unload and cause some instability, esp without limit straps

Thanks. He is VERY knowledgable and seems to not get annoyed with all my questions haha. Seems to really enjoy teaching guys. HE did say however that my rig is going to look goofy as shit with the 4.5" lift and 235's haah. SOO. gotta get bigger tires. Just trying to decide on 31's or 33's.
 
He's kind of right on that - to get the proper separation of the joints for the 3-link to function well. Sounds like he knows his stuff and knows his customer. Looks like the radius arm is right up your alley, and you can change it to 3-link later if you decide you need/want the better characteristics of the 3-link when it comes to steep hill climbs, where a radius arm is known to unload and cause some instability, esp without limit straps

Any suspension setup, given the situation is going to unload. Radius arms/y-link are more prone to it, due to how they are setup. However, as I have learned semi recently. There are things that can be done to assist in making it minimal/non-existant.
Some people use their winch line to keep the middle of the axle "sucked down" enough, which still allows for articulation on the sides. Limit straps/other means in the center of the axle will do the same.
IMO, limit straps are a must regardless of the setup.

I also say that no matter what setup you run, have a removable center section crossmember or mounts in front of the crossmember.
 
Any suspension setup, given the situation is going to unload. Radius arms/y-link are more prone to it, due to how they are setup. However, as I have learned semi recently. There are things that can be done to assist in making it minimal/non-existant.
Some people use their winch line to keep the middle of the axle "sucked down" enough, which still allows for articulation on the sides. Limit straps/other means in the center of the axle will do the same.
IMO, limit straps are a must regardless of the setup.

I also say that no matter what setup you run, have a removable center section crossmember or mounts in front of the crossmember.

If you look at the pic I posted of his crossmember, the middle section can be removed.
 
Looking at his facebook page, it looks like he does some decent work. He's also doing the work. If he's doing frame stiffeners, long arm front, and the packs in trade for a rifle, it's probably a fair trade.

He's using ruffstuff parts which are good quality, and that's a plus.
 
well guys here is the last pic I'll take of her stock. He is in the process of putting the lift together, convinced me to go 5.5 instead of 4.5. said the 5.5 just looks better, and will give me more options in the future without having to trim the fenders as much.

Stock except 235/75 duratracs.
20131201_135201_zpsfa93dc27.jpg
 
Well, looks like im trading him my .40 for a set of 4 Interco Trxus 33x12.5's on black wheels. So, im pretty much Good to go with everything other than steering, and drivetrain mods(gears, lockers, etc) and ZERO money out of pocket(well, that i havn't already spent)
 
Back
Top