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Lifter Tick issue

ReverendOD

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Fenton, MO
2 years ago I got the dreaded head crack on my 2001 XJ. Got low oil pressure that alerted me but that was all. I bought a head from CCW and swapped it on. On initial startup it lifter ticked like crazy. I checked the rockers, pumped the lifters by hand ect and it never went away. The truck has been running beautifully for the last 75K miles with a hot idle psi of 5. I always assumed the oil pressure was causing the tick but im revisiting it and I noticed something this winter. When the motor is cold and I start it up its dead quiet for about 30 seconds, then it begins clattering. Still has 35psi or so and not enough time for the oil to really thin out from heat. Also if you put it in D and foot brake it to about 1200-1300 rpm the tick goes away.

Any ideas? Im not to worried as she just keeps on trucking but woudl love to quiet down that clatter.
 
To the best of my knowledge the motor oils the bottom before it oils the top. So if you are loosing excessive oil due to bearing wear you may starve the top of the motor for oil.

Changing out my connecting rod bearings raised my idle oil pressure 5-7 PSI. Cleaning the oil pump pickup also likely helped, it was really plugged up.

I've been using diesel motor oil for a long time now 10-40W. No negative issues I've ever noticed (maybe some minimal mileage loss). The pluses are it has better additives, higher oil pressure and seems to adhere better.

I did a very unscientific test of synthetic oils after pulling some cans off the shelf that had been up there forever (2nd generation) and noticing they seemed to pour slower than the newer stuff (4th-5th generation). My test was a sheet of glass with 30 percent slope and a race to the bottom for different types of oil. Newer synthetics came in first (which is actually last) and diesel motor oil was by far the winner, the slowest to the bottom and left a really good snail trail.

I'm really hesitant to add any viscosity enhancers or cleaning agents to my oil. I have been known to add molybdenum though, on low compression motors to get a few more miles out of them. Moly B seems to raise oil pressure and adds compression (maybe 7 percent). It also seems to help quiet noisy lifters somewhat at startup. Moöy B seems hard to find anymore outside of a blended product.

When I cleaned my oil pump screen I also cleaned out the oil pump bypass valve. My bypass valve was obviously stuck partially open, it definetly wasn't moving much if at all.
 
I have a 2000 XJ that I drove 2 years thinking I had sticky lifters. Most XJs have sticky lifters, right? Several professional mechanics heard the engine, and they all said, that I had sticky lifters, even though I had not asked any of them for their opinion. Finally I decided to buy an engine stethascope and decide for sure. The ticking noise would begin at a "cold" start, anything less than 50*F ambient and last anout 10 minutes at that temperature. If it was colder out, the noise would be a little louder and last longer. With the stethascope, it was easy to determint the noise was louder on the driver's side of the block and near TDC. The lifters are on the passenger side of the engine and sticky lifters would be lounder on the passenger side of the block. Piston slap is most prevelant near TDC and BDC, but sound travels much better through metal to metal contact. AT BDC the rod journal is submerged in oil, and the piston skirt is in the open air. I was now positive I had at least one cracked piston skirt. After searches on multiple XJ forums, I also concluded that the incedence of cracked pistons are much more frequent in the newer 4.0 than all the previous year XJs. The transisition year seems to be about 1998 or 1999. The transisition does not seem to go with the 0331 head. The speculated causes seem to be evenly split between poor quality castings and worn out tooling.

I had to rebuild the engine. The head cracked cracked while I was on vacation in North Carolina. I was forced to drive it 900 miles home while the bearings were destroyed by the antifreeze in by the time I got home. My only choice was a complete rebuild, so I could get to the cam bearings.

When I got the engine apart, piston 5 had a single crack from the bottom of the skirt into the piston pin bore. Pistons 2 and 4 each had 2 cracks from the bottom the the skirt half way to the pins. I now have 28,000 miles on that engine and it is quiet as a sewing machine.

If you don't find the TC to FP bolts loose, you could have one or more cracked piston skirts.

NOW that you have the backstory, here is my recommendation:
If you don't already own a stethascope, pick one first thing in the morning. It could save you a lot of guessing and money.

This is the only reference I could find to cracked pistons on the forum:
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1074819


No aftermarket pistons have the same compression height (pin height) than the factory pistons. This means you will end up with a lower compression ratio. To partly compensate for this you can buy either the Jeep High Performance head gasket (.043") instead of the (.052") stock head gasket. It is also sold as a Victor Rienz #54249 (available at Rock Auto. With these numbers, you should be able to keep the CR close to stock. I was just looked in my receipts for the pistons I used. I bought them on ebay, H802CP under the EngineTech brand. Even with my selection of parts and a .020 overbore, I still ending up with a loss in my CR numbers of 1.2. I wish there had been a choice of a taller piston. I probably should have decked the block.
 
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