JCR Offroad Bumper Paint

[nblanton]

So, I know this is an old thread, but I wanted to follow up.

I went with Rustoleum primer and bedliner rattle can. Its held up pretty nice. Even had a minivan back into the bumper and total the van without any damage to the bumper or the paint.

For the money, it seems like the Rustoleum is good stuff.

 

[Brassmonkey]

Glad it worked out for you. I really liked Rustoleum primer + Rustoleum enamel. It was cheap, dried hard as nails, smooth so crap didn't stick to it, and was easy to repair. In the end, I got OCD and had a local shop color match front JCR, and rear Tomken + quarter panels for a reasonable price ($300).

 

[VAhasnoWAVES]

i used a rust inhibitor/primer from mastercoat.
http://www.masterseriescoatings.com/index/products/primer/

etch primer works, this stuff works better. it is self etching as well, and dries hard as nails. you can spray, but i just brushed on. found a foam brush works best. even the best powder coat will chip and get scratched off. i like this stuff because it keeps rust from spreading under the paint/primer. rattle can with your favorite flavor... makes for easy touch ups.

 

[StinkyFab]

Powder coating is not exactly everything it is cracked up to be. Rust gets to work underneath it and wreaks havoc before you realize what is going on in there. And the day comes that you need to do any additional welding for some kind of modification you are up a creek.

If you're getting rust underneath your powdercoating you need to go to a different coater. Step 1 in the process is a full sandblasting to make sure the metal is totally clean and rust free before immediately coating it. Unless you drag it across a rock or in some other way damage the coating it should be a permanent job.

 

[Tim_MN]

Powder Coat is fine where the DOT does not use tons of road salt per mile per week for 6-8 months per year.

When a pin hole or rock chip opens in the powder coating, the salt water creeps in and spreads under the powder coat. Before you even notice, large areas are rusted and pitted.

 

[Anak]

If you're getting rust underneath your powdercoating you need to go to a different coater. Step 1 in the process is a full sandblasting to make sure the metal is totally clean and rust free before immediately coating it. Unless you drag it across a rock or in some other way damage the coating it should be a permanent job.

I am using RW Little in San Diego.

I don't think there is anything wrong with their sandblasting, prep or finish work. The issue is the reality of taking parts out of the showroom and into the real world.

And it is not just offroad issues. The lower control arms on my Camaro (strictly street) are rusting along the edges.

Any kind of rock chip poses a liability to powder coating.

The process has its place. It is still my preferred choice over aluminum or stainless. It is probably fine over steel on an interior application. It is just no longer one of my preferred choices on an exterior automotive application. And in the event I do use it there (still happens now and then) I don't hold high expectations for it.