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Cracked block confirmed. New LB, used, LB, or v8?

blistovmhz

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Vancouver, BC
So I've had issues with the 4.0L in my 98 XJ since the day I got it. Thing stuttered and just wasn't happy on a fairly regular basis. Owner said it was heat soak, I told him he was wrong but I'd take it anyway because he was only asking for the price of the stereo.

Turned out it was no compression in the #6 cylinder. Stuck intake and exhaust valves. This was like, 7 years ago when I knew nothing. Replaced the head (again, I didn't know better) and it ran like a top, but I was definitely losing coolant, but there was no evidence on the ground or out the exhaust. Of course, the long short is that I had a hairline fracture in the #6 cylinder, which was small enough to go unnoticed without magnaflux, but large enough that when water temp/pressure got up to around 100, it starts slowly pushing coolant into the cylinder.
So I figured whatever. I'd just let it run it's course and do something about it when it became a bigger issue. Well, now it's a bigger issue. Started losing power on the highway on hot days, and sure enough, I'm low on coolant, and the #6 plug is rusty, and I'm losing oil pressure, etc. The loss of power I'm sure is being caused by stuck valves again (derp) caused of course by the constant flow of water into the cylinder. I'm guessing the rings and cylinder walls aren't too happy about the constant wash either.

I figure at this point, there's no point in pretending the head will still be good without at least a new set of valves. If I have to buy a short block, and some valves, I'm already into the price range of a decent low mileage 4.0L. If I'm seriously looking at spending $400ish on a used 4.0L, maybe I should just spring for a brand new LB (someone selling one locally for $700). And ya know, if I'm talking about taking out the old power plant, maybe this can be an excuse for a v8 swap....
*sigh*


So:
1. Used 4.0L - $300-$450; No real good way to know the condition without actually buying and installing. I can compression test and inspect stuff all day, but there's just no way to look for cracks without spending more on testing than on the engine.
2. Used 4.0L out of my buddies recently written off 95XJ. I'm not sure what all I need to do to get this working with my 98. I know the head is slightly different... anything else, assuming my head is still good or can be valved?
3. Brand new 4.0L long block - $700; Almost certainly in perfect condition. The seller seems trustworthy and not like he's out to screw anyone. Says he's selling because he never got around to installing it, and crashed the Jeep it was going into.
4. v8 swap - $1500-$20,000 :); Tonnes of work, way more expensive, could easily build myself a sickass stroker for the entry price of a v8 swap.


Um... 5... Build a stroker? This may be a bit beyond my capability right now. Don't have the space for it, but I didn't have the space for any of my other projects that got done either.

Thoughts and suggestions? I can probably get a few more months out of this motor, but it pains my soul to watch all those hipster jerks pass me in their Prius while I'm busy gearing down to third to make it up a slight incline.
 
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Bone stock 5.3L with a set of headers is going to get ya 300HP, 400 is doable with the right fuel map loaded into the PCM.

You'll spend a metric ass ton of money to get those numbers out of a stroker.
It's a no-brainer....5.3L Vortec FTW.

Yea, the question is how much power do I really need, and how much is it worth in terms of time, money, and Jeep down time. We're already well into summer and I've barely got out wheeling cause I'm too busy helping my room mate finish his Chev SAS. I only have two wheelin' buddies (room mate and another fellow Jeeper) and roomies truck is almost ready, and Jeep buddy just wrote off his Jeep :). I don't necessarily want to be out of commission all summer.

The V8 swap will cost substantially more than a new 4.0L LB, especially for stuff I can't fabricate like the bellhousing adapter and headers. I did find someone locally selling a 6.0L stroked LS for $1000, claims it makes 500HP on the dyno. I'd certainly have no problem dropping $2000ish on a v8 swap, but I figure by the time I've tracked down all the parts and got it installed, I'm looking at minimum $4000 and it'll be winter before it's done :). This is something I've wanted to do for a long time, but now I figure we're really only a few years away from a full electric XJ with a 400km range being realistic for under $4000. An electric XJ with enough capacity to move 400km will absolutely rape any V8 swap in absolutely every aspect. Hell, I've already got two 500HP motors sitting in storage, just waiting for the first batch of super-capacitor batteries :p.

I'm leaning towards a used 4.0L just because they're so cheap and plentiful. I can pick up two full 4.0L motors, complete with accessory packages, for $300. At $150 a piece, it's really hard to say no, but I'm also pretty fed up with this Jeep having such little power (it's by far the weakest 4.0L I've ever owned). It's really a toss up on how many cheap used 4.0L's I want to try, or how much I trust the guy with the new LB. Decisions....
 
I'm leaning towards a used 4.0L just because they're so cheap and plentiful. I can pick up two full 4.0L motors, complete with accessory packages, for $300. At $150 a piece, it's really hard to say no, but I'm also pretty fed up with this Jeep having such little power (it's by far the weakest 4.0L I've ever owned). It's really a toss up on how many cheap used 4.0L's I want to try, or how much I trust the guy with the new LB. Decisions....

just do a used long-block, slap a few new components in it like waterpump and a full gasket/seal kit and call it good.
that will get you on the road the easiest. if you want to do an LS swap start building your parts pile and do it when you are ready. it WILL cost more $$$ than you think.
as far as the "new" 4.0L..... it might be a good deal if it is a commercially built unit. i tend not to trust "its new, i built it myself" because you dont know where they cheaped-out, or the true depth of their practical knowledge and experience.
 
just do a used long-block, slap a few new components in it like waterpump and a full gasket/seal kit and call it good.
that will get you on the road the easiest. if you want to do an LS swap start building your parts pile and do it when you are ready. it WILL cost more $$$ than you think.
as far as the "new" 4.0L..... it might be a good deal if it is a commercially built unit. i tend not to trust "its new, i built it myself" because you dont know where they cheaped-out, or the true depth of their practical knowledge and experience.

According to the guy selling that new 4.0L LB, it came directly from Chysler, and it's still packed in assembly grease. I'm asking for a receipt right now as well.
 
According to the guy selling that new 4.0L LB, it came directly from Chysler, and it's still packed in assembly grease. I'm asking for a receipt right now as well.
if it seems legit it might be a good deal regardless of receipt. i'm curious what MFG Chryco got their remans from..
 
Me too and no idea. It sounds like he's had the LB sitting in storage for quite a while. I'm still waiting for more details, but yea, I know the tooling for the 4.0L block and head was destroyed back in the early 2000's, so we know the motor's gotta be at least around 10years old. I almost feel safer getting a used LB, but we'll see. waiting on word back from a few guys.
 
if it seems legit it might be a good deal regardless of receipt. i'm curious what MFG Chryco got their remans from..

I thought it was ATK?
 
Bone stock 5.3L with a set of headers is going to get ya 300HP, 400 is doable with the right fuel map loaded into the PCM.

You'll spend a metric ass ton of money to get those numbers out of a stroker.
It's a no-brainer....5.3L Vortec FTW.


If he knew what you went through............ he would run like hell :shiver:
 
Bone stock 5.3L with a set of headers is going to get ya 300HP, 400 is doable with the right fuel map loaded into the PCM.

You'll spend a metric ass ton of money to get those numbers out of a stroker.
It's a no-brainer....5.3L Vortec FTW.


:roflmao:

Yeah... no. All that work to make a V8 fit in isn't worth it, especially for a Chevy engine haha.

Cheapest option is a used engine, make sure you can hear it run first. It would be ideal to buy one from a wrecked Jeep that still has the engine in it so the seller can start it for you.

Best option would probably be that new long block with a new head, you will have a totally brand new engine.

Most powerful option would be building a stroker, but that isn't really cheap to do it correctly.
 
Just run the 4.0 out of the 95, you just gotta swap over sensors and intake, the head and block are the same.
 
If he knew what you went through............ he would run like hell :shiver:
Wrong. What I went through was a learning process that I gladly shared with the folks on this forum. My problems were more tranny related...not engine.

:roflmao:

Yeah... no. All that work to make a V8 fit in isn't worth it, especially for a Chevy engine haha.
Yeah...you're ignorant.
Your anti-chevy comment makes no sense whatsoever.The 5.3L Vortec has quickly be ome the engine of choice for damn near everyone considering a V8 swap. Take a close look at the motors being used in K.O.H rigs.

While you are entitled to your opinion, you would be more credible if you had actually built and installed a non-stock motor in your xj.

I'm sure OP knows what the least expensive option is.

[\THREAD]
 
Wrong. What I went through was a learning process that I gladly shared with the folks on this forum. My problems were more tranny related...not engine.


Yeah...you're ignorant.
Your anti-chevy comment makes no sense whatsoever.The 5.3L Vortec has quickly be ome the engine of choice for damn near everyone considering a V8 swap. Take a close look at the motors being used in K.O.H rigs.

While you are entitled to your opinion, you would be more credible if you had actually built and installed a non-stock motor in your xj.

I'm sure OP knows what the least expensive option is.

[\THREAD]


So, my engine is running absolutely fine again, so I think I may have a little more time than I thought. I may pick up a used 4.0L as a drop in spare just in case my Jeep does fail on the trail, but I may be seriously considering a v8 swap over the winter.

That said, all said and done, how much did you spend on your swap, how much power are you making, and what's your MPG look like (also, how big is your rig, and what shoes/gears are you running) ?
I've heard wildly different numbers on mileage, anywhere from 12mpg to 35mpg, and there doesn't seem to be any middle ground. What are you actually getting?
 
Um... the head casting changed in 97/98. I know they'll bolt up, but wasn't the HP improvement in the 98HO all due to head modifications?

There was no HP improvement only actually change was in 99
 
Wrong. What I went through was a learning process that I gladly shared with the folks on this forum. My problems were more tranny related...not engine.

It was a learning process alright! Maybe you should link your learning process to this thread so the OP can see just what a headache he is in for.


Yeah...you're ignorant.
Your anti-chevy comment makes no sense whatsoever.The 5.3L Vortec has quickly be ome the engine of choice for damn near everyone considering a V8 swap. Take a close look at the motors being used in K.O.H rigs.

A dislike of one brand over another does not warrant ignorance! I prefer Ford and am proud of the fact that Ford did not take taxpayer bailout money just to continue producing CRAP!! To each their own.....:rolleyes:

While you are entitled to your opinion, you would be more credible if you had actually built and installed a non-stock motor in your xj.[\THREAD]

As are you entitled to an opinion..... does not make your opinion better than the next guys opinion. Maybe his experience or knowledge comes from putting a non stock, non GM engine in something else??? :rtm:
 
Yeah...you're ignorant.
Your anti-chevy comment makes no sense whatsoever.The 5.3L Vortec has quickly be ome the engine of choice for damn near everyone considering a V8 swap. Take a close look at the motors being used in K.O.H rigs.

While you are entitled to your opinion, you would be more credible if you had actually built and installed a non-stock motor in your xj.

I'm sure OP knows what the least expensive option is.

[\THREAD]



A little butthurt over a playful jab at the brand of engine you used? Jeez.

I applaud your abilities to put a V8 into an XJ, but I think it is pretty silly to suggest that as the "no-brainer" option to the OP. You and I both know how much modification is required, and a V8 won't just "drop in" to an XJ.

Of course the 5.3 is a good engine, it has the most aftermarket support next to the sbc 350. Be careful calling someone ignorant when you don't know their background, and using terms like "no brainer" when you are unaware of the OP's mechanical abilities.

I've worked on plenty of Chevys both diesel and gas. Every brand has their issues.
 
I went the ATK stroker route. Not the cheapest but comes with warranty. So far 6k miles on it. Seems to actually be getting stronger. I went ahead and put a header, flowcooler waterpump, bored TB, and port matched horseshoe intake on it. Was a fun build, we will see how long it lasts.



Have a Jeep that needs some Torque? This is our base 4.7L Stroker and it wont break the bank! This fits 1991-1997 All Model's (Vin S), 1998 Cherokee's and 1998 Wrangler



Stage: 1
HP: 205HP
TORQUE: 280TQ
Engine Type: AMC Straight 6 Cyl
Displacement (cu.in):242
Block: Cast 569, 341 or 499
Bore / Stoke: OE .040-.060 Bore
Crankshaft: 258 CI /2.125 Snout .850 Pilot Hole
Rods: 258 CI
Pistons: Hyperutectic
Rings: Moly



Camshaft Type: HYD. Flat Tappet
Camshaft Lift: Lift .462 x .478
Camshaft Duration @.50: 206 x 212
Cylinder Head Type: 1991 - 1998 Cast#630
Rocker Arm Type: Stamped Steel
Sheet Metal: None
Recommended Fuel: 92 Octane +
Max RPM: 5300
Warranty: 2 Years Unlimited Miles
Dyno Proven: YES

ACCESSORIES

Price: $2,849.00

Part #: HP24
 
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