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33" vs 35" On stock drivetrain?

I believe you have it backwards. You're talking horsepower. The 4.0 puts out about 235 horsepower, but only 190 pound feet of torque.

Unless you're running a stroker or something.

no, he had it right..

only one of you is wrong :)
 
this is the best thread in a long time :)
 
Hopefully some people are still on here. I'm in a similar situation as OP but I have decided to run 4.56 gears. I have a buddy with tools and a bit of (not Jeep) experience so I want to make sure I have everything before I go over there. I've an 01 with Dana 30 and 8.25. To go from stock to 4.56 do I need new carrier(s)? Both or just one or the other? Thanks guys.
 
I say go 31s until you can afford gears, brakes, and axle upgrades.
Beef up your brakes first, then beef up your 30 a little(put in fresh 760s and tack weld the caps or buy some chromos), diff cover, some bracing and trussing maybe, , then re gear, then sell 31s and buy 33s. Plan to regear as soon as you can afford gears.

The world wont end if you run 33s on stock gears for 6 months to a year, but it can bring the suck and you have been warned. I say lock the front . In my experience flooring the rig with an open front is worse than slowly crawling up a ledge with a locked front.

When I feel like not locking the front ARB to climb a steep ledge that requires me bumping the damn thing and then I could just lock it and crawl right up...Now you are at the point where you don't want to floor it with a locked front on 33s though until you swap the 30 out...
 
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Beef up your brakes first, then beef up your 30 a little(put in fresh 760s and tack weld the caps or buy some chromos), diff cover, some bracing and trussing maybe, , then re gear, then sell 31s and buy 33s. Plan to regear as soon as you can afford gears...

I have the gears and for the 30 and 8.25. I'll find a new carrier. I found a good source for trusses. What do I need to do on the brakes? Just increase the size?

:dunce:
 
I have the gears and for the 30 and 8.25. I'll find a new carrier. I found a good source for trusses. What do I need to do on the brakes? Just increase the size?

:dunce:



Open Pandora's Box.

Drop wallet inside.

Run.

oh wait..
 
I have the gears and for the 30 and 8.25. I'll find a new carrier. I found a good source for trusses. What do I need to do on the brakes? Just increase the size?

:dunce:

I am still recommending 33s and not 35s and carry spare front shafts . On 33s your brakes should be ok.

You have 3 options for the front brakes the way I see it if you feel you must got to 35s:

1. Wj swap - can range between 500-1000$ depending on how you source parts
1. Black magic brakes(he uses centric premium rotors and pads
2.go on rock auto and swap in centric premium calipers/rotors/pads

WJ is the best but the most expensive and time consuming. Black magic is a fantastic option too.

As for the rear, just make sure you have good shoes and the drums don't have any ridges, and make sure the wheel cylinders are in good working order.

If you don't already have a dual diaphragm booster and master setup, do that.I don't recall what year your rig is.

Any tire over 35" on a dana 30 and you will need many things and I would not do that unless you are ready for the WJ swap or you might hate your brakes.
 
1. Black magic brakes(he uses centric premium rotors and pads

He owns his own formula and has custom pads made. They are hands down the best thing on the market, and its somewhat insulting to call them Centric. :)


His pads alone is the best upgrade you will put onto an XJ, except maybe for a stroker.
 
He owns his own formula and has custom pads made. They are hands down the best thing on the market, and its somewhat insulting to call them Centric. :)


His pads alone is the best upgrade you will put onto an XJ, except maybe for a stroker.

But he does use Centric rotors, so it's half right. And I agree, swapping to the Black Magic kit is nothing short of awesome. It's almost scary how well the Jeep can stop.

David Bricker / SYR
 
I am still recommending 33s and not 35s and carry spare front shafts . On 33s your brakes should be ok.

You have 3 options for the front brakes the way I see it if you feel you must got to 35s:

1. Wj swap - can range between 500-1000$ depending on how you source parts
1. Black magic brakes(he uses centric premium rotors and pads
2.go on rock auto and swap in centric premium calipers/rotors/pads

WJ is the best but the most expensive and time consuming. Black magic is a fantastic option too.

As for the rear, just make sure you have good shoes and the drums don't have any ridges, and make sure the wheel cylinders are in good working order.

If you don't already have a dual diaphragm booster and master setup, do that.I don't recall what year your rig is.

Any tire over 35" on a dana 30 and you will need many things and I would not do that unless you are ready for the WJ swap or you might hate your brakes.

jeez i don't disagree, but do any of you guys have a 5sp? I don't use brakes that often.

im sure its in the thread somewhere to convert to rear discs......
 
What do you guys think about an axle sleeve for the Dana 30? I am looking at one at Iron Rock Off Road.

waste of time when there are many other useful things to spend time/money on with your D30. I'd do a truss before I ever did sleeves, and a truss for a D30 isn't very high on my list of "must-haves"
 
He owns his own formula and has custom pads made. They are hands down the best thing on the market, and its somewhat insulting to call them Centric. :)


His pads alone is the best upgrade you will put onto an XJ, except maybe for a stroker.

Sorry I meant to say he uses centric calipers and rotors. I did not mean to write pads in there. Slipped. The whole point of blaines stuff is to use his pads.
 
jeez i don't disagree, but do any of you guys have a 5sp? I don't use brakes that often.

im sure its in the thread somewhere to convert to rear discs......

several, and I wheeled a 5 speed hard for 6 years.

I never had a problem with the stock brakes, even the "terrible" single diapragm renix booster on 35's.

Making sure that they're properly working is far more important, and I suspect that most people that do the swap end up fixing all the other crap at the same time so that's why they think it's so fawesome.

The only compelling reason I see these days for the rear disc swap is ease of maintenance.
 
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