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If we're mine I'd dry the rust by wetting it with 100% isopropyl and letting it evaporate. Then I'd convert the iron oxide to iron phosphate by applying Ospho or Rust Mort followed by primer, wet sanding, painting and clear coating.

Pics. First pic showing the back side of the reassembled regulator gear box with nuts and bolts through the hollow stumps of the mushroom staking that replace the mushroom heads that were ground off. Second pic is to show the rusty end is now attached to the head plate. Third...

It's a pic from the web. IF my notes are correct,, part number 4720 498-91XJ TAIL LAMP, EUROPE.

Not everybody wanted. Not all who did were willing to pay, they were crazy expensive.

Speaking of crank sensors...has anybody figured out a replacement for the discontinued and unobtainable high altitude crank sensor yet or a mod to get that sweet extra 4 degrees of advance ?

Sorry about that. I'll ping the mods for permission to edit or ask them to insert the images.

91 and later. The last iteration from the 1999 I think. Super super rare piece. The factory also briefly offered a roof mounted spare tire carrier. I've only seen pictures of it once. It wasreal deal NOS complete with packaging and Mopar sticky labels intact.

This one is a Bronco II carrier modded to fit. Chevy S10 Blazer carriers have been modded to work also. OEM Jeep factory 84 to 90 carrier

I have the external parts. The internal reinforcements are easy enough to fab up. I can figure out the position of the holes pretty close but I'd rather know for certain.

Yup.

The drivers door window on my '95 XJ would not roll up. The crank handle turned but just skipped in the regulator. I'll skip the door disassembly part and get right to the rehabbing the regulator. With the regulator on the bench first thing I did was drill off the flanges of the circular...

So I have an OEM swing away tire carrier correct for my '95 daily driver. Before I go poking holes in things I'd like to know where to poke said holes. Yah I can SWAG it but I'd rather measure twice and cut once. If you have a factory swing out carrier and can take some measurements for me...

If you go with a weld repair be sure to drill a small hole at each end of the crack before welding to stop it from propagating. Brazing the crack is another option.

Other things that eat milage: less than perfect ground connections, the sensors need excellent ground connections all the way back to the ECU or else the signals are weak and the ECU responds by richening the mixture. ( poor grounds are why the headlights get dim as XJs age ). Dragging fan...

If your worried there's plenty Bosch OEM Ford 12 hole injectors in the wrecking yards.

If both 4 hole and 12 hole injectors flow 24 Lbs/hr then all things considered your XJ is not going to run faster or jump higher because...24 Lb/hr it's what they flow. That said 12 hole injectors make sense. More smaller holes = more finer spray= easier and more complete combustion.

$250 ? Holy $#&* ! Time to check industrial and manufacturing supply houses.

There's more than one possible cause of that sound. Gummed up lifter is among them.

Heater core. Nothing else in the heater box is capable of leaking the precious green liquid onto your passengers feet.

If you want heavy duty authentic no s#!t old school then Bituminous coating is what what your looking for. It can be brushed, rolled, dipped or sprayed. Also it can be thinned for use in touch up guns.