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How did this end up turning out?
Id definitely run draglink over the knuckle if youve got enough oil pan clearance.
Track bar can be lower at frame side to clear oil pan.
Most likly a custom axle side and frame side to end matching drag link and clear oil pan.
I do have custom frame axle...
Im not sure that rcp is 100% correct. So im bumping your thread so otheres that have done the swap will see and rcp may possibly give a more detailed response.
Great thread and right up.
Whats most amazing is you are magic and were able to post photos showing the process.
I quit paying for Tapatalk so no longer can post photos.
Your the first ive seen thats actually broke one. Seems everyone else reads that it can happen in the bible or something.
Im on grizzly front with welded rear just 35s . Honestly probly been 6 months since my jeeps moved
Im on with the mouth breathing morons but ill lump every tire shop in that category not just discount.
Id have them nock that tire lose and turn the rim 180 then start over on the balance machine.
I just had a set of near unbalancable street tires on my pickup. Brand new 295x60x20s.
Shit tons...
Raise your hand if youve broke a dana30 ring and pinion. Yup no hands raised.
First front locker before rear it just works better amazingly actually so much so you may decide to leave the rear open.
Chromo shafts can hold up well to locked 35s. Stock shafts break as you think about pushing...
I run 10plys and run 20-25lbs.
When im in trail mode ill run as low as 15 on street dirt and freeway. No reason to air down at trail heads.
Most jeeps dont need to run much over 25 regardless of 6 or 10 ply.
Chalk will help jeep pilots figure out the air they should be running but ive found...
You need to remove coil springs and cycle suspension to figure out what contacts when, then set up bump stops accordingly.
I also assume this is more a street rig since you said you get stuck everywhere with drop brackets. Or also likely is you actually have never run drop brackets and are only...
No idea
Winch
Maybe wj steering
Steering brace/frame reinforcement
4.88 gears
Coilovers valved for my rig
Grizzly front locker
Miller rear locker
3 link front.
Prp daily driver seat
Sliders, bumpers, fenders
Maybe kinda in this order
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Lower it and use sledge hammer to adjust fenders for clearance.
This is mine with 4"ish lift reamed wj knuckles
Stock xj pitman arm.
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Id cut your add in half a list it for 7 then let someone talk you down to 6.
I dont think it matters what words are in the add. Put a price on it with lots of pictures
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Yes as mentioned above the biggest advantage is getting the tie rod and drag link seperated.
I woukdnt do all thevwork your doing then putt freaking shitty as inverted y peice of shit steering back on it.
Leaving the tie rod on the knuckles then putting the drag link on the high steer arm is a...
Id agree. The first muffler i ran was the flowmaster. Mangled it up then a magnaflow then a spintech 3000 with a twister muffler to kill the dreaded ricer sound.
The inline 6 just sounds like shit the more we try to make it sound good the shittyer it sounds.
Mines 2.5 from header to bumper...
I did tre"s and have had no issues with wj steering over the knuckle.
Factor the cost of the reamer into your parts list.
Ive used lots of heims on suspension fir the most part i get lots of miles out if them. But have had a few go bad with very few miles.
Ruffstuff did warranty them they did...
Only xj stuff no other bs. Short vid playing today
4.88s grizzly front, welded rear, 5 speed
https://youtube.com/shorts/m4W0KDO-xNs?feature=share
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