Search results

Did the mod...all new

So I ran "Amy" for a good hall yesterday. Let her sit, start, sit longer, start, and so far she starts. Not always the same start up, a little finessing, but she starts...So I'm abit perplexed...not sure yet if the warm engine no start is fixed or not....time will tell... I wanted to also test...

OK, my fuel pressure is 35 with no bleed off. I also have new 4 hole Bosch Injectors (spendy), all new rubber grommets for the seals, and a new fuel pressure regulator. Oh, and thank you for your reply...I want to make a list of all the items I have done off of your website ;) Love it! You...

OK, So I have done the CPS mod, and I am getting .5 to .7 V now...Still have the warm engine no start, however, This time after no start condition, I proceeded to try and start it with WOT, and bam! fired right the hell up...

My IAC is less than a year old...but I have seen new bad parts...It idles well, considering I have an RV cam in it...and it never drops while driving...

Sorry, I appreciate your time and patience. So I just used my voltmeter on AC to the CPS connector, cranked it, and I still got 000. So this weekend I will pull it and do the drill hole deal...TBC...

Ok, so with no signal coming out of the harness side, how does that reflect making a mod in the CPS side? The harness side has no signal from the ECU, so wouldn't you repair that? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Or is it drilling out the holes to put the magnet closer to the flywheel... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The six page mod that used to have a harness kit? To run the two wires direct to the ECU? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hooked up voltmeter, set to AC to CPS harness connector, cranked, Reading was 000

This reading is from the Harness Side to the CPS

"Oh and thanks...I live on this website"

OK , wiring harness looks ok. This is the 3rd CPS I've replaced in six months... All diff brands...I'll re check spark after warm up soon...been a bit busy...

Negative

I am running a mod engine 89 AMC XJ that has the potential to run way too hot, so this is what I did to ensure a cool running engine: 3 row all aluminum radiator (about 260.00 @ radiator express) works awesome. three Spal 30100435 10" Curved Blade Puller Fans (don't go cheap on this..+ 2ea...

I have read countless articles on this issue, and I have found zero solutions. Any guidance here would be gratefully appreciated. OK, Starts cold no problem, drive it up to normal operating temperature, park it for 25 minutes or more, No start, just crank...Let it sit for hours, until cold...

Ok, so the Renix ignition system has a Ford Motorcraft distributer, and the coil type is similar to the MSD 5527 street fire, (and works well) I am NOT trying to re-invent the wheel or get more performance here...it's just that the replacement parts nowadays are total crap, and don't last...so...

Dubster: both temp sensors are under 90 days old, and I have a REM + reader that reads out the temps along with the factory gauges, and all seems to be well...I am going bonkers with this!!!

so how does the ignition switch relate to a warm engine no start?

Thanks...