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That is a big question! I'm sure there are lots of folks who think about it lots of different ways. Pulling an engine from a yard can be an undertaking. The 4.0 is pretty heavy! First, are you sure you need an engine? Can you just get a head? Less risky (and cheaper and easier) if you know your...

I bought a whole AW4 to get the bellhousing. You probably have a good bellhousing on your shot AW4! This one supposedly has 180k on it and works fine. Torque Converter too. '98-01. $100. Paul (I never remember how to post pics here. But it looks like an AW4).

A mere $500 for a 99+ intake: https://denver.craigslist.org/pts/d/jeep-xj-cherokee-intake/6221515282.html You might think he meant $50. But he wrote $500 both in the title and in the text! Paul

I have a gas tank skid. A really beefy one. That I bent a bit on this trip! OEM question, not an OEM Jeep. I wouldn't go much of anywhere but the street without a gas tank skid. Like I said, I burned a hole in the tank. It was in the front where the tail pipe goes over the rear axle. The...

Uh, yeah. I actually discovered it after we had the Jeep towed home because the t-case exploded into three pieces on the interstate. I told my wife we were lucky, because the t-case exploding may have saved us from a fiery death. She was not amused. Paul

The tailshaft difference is plainly visible, so just be sure it looks like yours or take the driveshaft too (or now is a good time for an SYE!). It is the input shaft length differences that are not as immediately obvious when looking at a pic on CL.

I think you are just new enough to have both the electronic speedo control and a 23 spline input shaft. The input shaft lengths are different for auto and manual, so you just need to find a 92 or later, which you can see from the speedo control, from your transmission type. Paul

I had to drop the fuel tank on my '98 136k miles because I melted a hole in it when I beat the exhaust into two bits on a trail. Near as I can tell, it has never been down before, and it looks like the OEM fuel pump. Should I take this opportunity to replace it? Or will an inexpensive...

Well, I figured out that answer to my question in another thread. That noise in my crankcase after an engine swap? It is something in my tranny/torque converter. It started getting a little sluggish just a few dozen miles. As I drove the Jeep this week (25 miles each way, commuting), it got...

Well, to add insult to insult, it is now undriveable. I'm pretty sure the problem is in the tranny or torque converter. I can hear the sound now with a stethoscope on the plate that covers the flex plate. But worse, the Jeep now climbs hills like it is pulling 10,000 lbs. The engine sounds...

Well, driving it around has been interesting. Today, I managed to catch it in the act. I was in a suit, so I only listened around the things you can reach from the top with my stethoscope. The noise doesn't seem to be coming from distributor. Or anywhere else on the top. But, I am becoming more...

I like that theory a lot. That does sound like the neighborhood the noise is coming from. Sunday I checked the torque converter bolts and poked all around with my stethoscope. Didn't find a thing. But there is an interesting new development. I decided to drive it to work today. 30 miles each...

It is an auto. Laying under it with my ear up to the pan and bellhousing, it really sounds like it is inside the pan. Engine would also explain why it only makes the noise when it is good and warm. I will check the torque converter bolts. I used brand new ones when I put it back together as...

Hi guys, I recently pulled the motor (only 130k miles) to replace a leaking rear freeze plug, and while I was at it, I did the rear main seal and oil pump, among other things. It worked great for 100 miles or so. Then, one day when it had run for quite awhile, I started hearing what I thought...

PM Sent.

Rats. I see now that you have a manual. If you are running stock gears, they're 3.07s! At the very least, I bet you could find a set of 3.55 axles from an auto for $300-400, and it'd drive nicer. Paul

I once had 33s and the stock 3.55 (for auto) gears. It worked alright, I guess. But I tossed in 4.10s and it drove 10x better. The nice thing about 4.10s is that if you are lucky, you can score a set from a stock Jeep, as there are some 4 cylinder models with 4.10s floating around. But at 6.5"...

I just installed that ATP/Grayworks header. Last time I used the cheap SpeedDaddy. The ATP is built much better. For the same price as the Dorman, you get a 3-2-1 style and stainless. It is harder to get the bottom bolts in with any 3-2-1, but it isn't a big deal. Paul

I don't think your alignment is causing the problem. But, as people said above, take some toe out of it. Straight ahead is just fine. Or just a tiny, tiny bit of toe. Lots of us run too little caster with higher lifts. It doesn't cause wobble, just more wander at speed. I don't like the idea of...