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Pics of this XJ can be found here along with the Mountain bike that is for sale. Can sell anytime. It is on the market. http://joinomba.org/modules/mx_smartor/album.php?smartor_mode=album_personal&user_id=9 Thanks BA

It looks like I am selling my prized XJ very soon. So I am checking interests. Here's the specs 4.0, AX15, NV231, 4.10s, Auburn in rear, 160k, fenders are cut with TJ flares, home built front and rear bumbers, rear tire carrier, custom gas tank and oil pan skids, mopar tc skid, custom 4x4...

87 to 93 out of a 4x4 S-10. Get the 4 leaf pack not the 3 leaf. BA

Thanks, I will give that a whirl first. BA

I need some input on removal without breaking it. My windshield company will no longer warranty it against leakage due to rust. They say it is common on all XJs. Anyway, I need removal tips and any special tool purchases I may need to make. Also, where can I get the adhesive to put it back...

I run 4.10s with 33s and wish I had more gear. I don't get off road much so I am basing it on road manners. After driving with 4.10 and 31s I wish I had 4.56 with my 33s. Yes I have the 5 speed. There are times in 5th gear that I have to down shift to gain momentum. 4.56s would help with...

Yes, get a tow dolly with surge brakes. I tow a heavy boat with mine and it is a 5 speed. When my surge brakes didn't work on the trailer I had some very life threatening moments, especially in the rain. Electric trailer brakes would be better but surge brakes will do. BA

I vote 33s just for the simple reason to keep it more dependable on the trail. I don't like breakage so I would stick to 33s. BA

External. BA

Purolator is made by ArvinMeritor. Fram is made by Allied-Signal. Purolators are not rebadged Frams. I use Purolator Pure ones exclusively. BA

5.25 backspace is stock. I run 33X10.50 with 4.75 backspace and still rub the LCAs. With 14 wide tires You will need somewhere around a 4.00 back space or less. BA

I have been running an Optima Yellow top for 5 years. No problems still works fine. This is in a 96. I wonder if the charging problem exists with the yellow top. Maybe the yellow top is the way to go. I won mine in a raffle so I didn't pay for it. It has done great for a free battery. BA

I have your exact set up with 4.10s. I would rather have 4.56. I find myself in 4th gear if I drop below 60. For me 4.56 is the way to go. BA

I have a similar problem on my 96 when the fluid gets good and warmed up. I go to turn into a parking spot and my steering gets stiff. The engine is at an idle since I have my foot on the clutch. As soon as I bump the rpms up the stiffness goes away. I think my pump is starting to go bad...

The starter on my 96 died at 155k. I was caring a hammer under my seat for awhile so I could give the starter a tap to get me going again. BA

I left mine in. It doesn't snag on stuff and hasn't stiffened the ride up much. I tow a boat so it helps with the load leveling. BA

I got 55k out of my last set of BFG MTs with rotations every 8k. BA

I'm in Ohio and after trashing 3 alternators in mud holes I made a sheet metal guard for the alternator. No issues since. BA

I have a yakima rack. I remove it for wheeling now. I have ripped it off twice and it cost me a chunk in replacement parts to make it functional again. That is why most people that need a rack for off - road buy the wilderness racks and comparable others. Just my experience. BA

Clean your vent tube. I bet it is clogged and it is blowing seals to vent. If you have been mudding lately that may be your problem. It has happen to me a few times. BA