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I've had intermittent no-start problems three times on my 91. Two of those times it was a CPS (showed a code 11) and once a coil (showed no codes). And that's about what I've found over the years, you can find ~50% of your start/run problems by reading the OBD1 codes. Not perfect, but better...

^^ This. You're not going to get an OBD1 CEL for this problem. Check for codes. https://comancheclub.com/topic/28111-reading-obdi-91-and-92-mj-fault-codes/

As others have said, I agree with the use of an on-board AFR and Mopar 195* stat. I had similar cooling problems with overheating several times especially when stuck in traffic on hot days, causing me to pull over and park it until it cooled down My rig is a 91 MJ with a 4.6 Hesco stroker...

Have you checked for fault codes yet?

I've tried hood vents, but the Reflexxion steel cowl hood is much more efficient. ZJ Hood Vents Reflexxion Cowl Hood (No Longer Available):

The 90-96 XJ AW4 cooler lines are all the same, but the p/n's changed in 97. I don't know exactly why, but I can't imagine they would be that much difference and would swap over easily. The lines are pretty cheap too, of good quality, and are available at Amazon and other outlets. Dorman Part...

There are plenty of new Mopar sensors on Ebay - p/n 56026921

Still have the same setup and controller. Zero problems after all these years.

I think they are casting numbers.

91-95 4.0 XJ intakes are all interchangeable.

Mopar 56027280 is the CPS for a 96 YJ w. auto. From the parts manual, the correct Mopar p/n for your 96 XJ is 56026921.

The roll pins are easy to get to and tap out. I have a new Mopar reservoir coming, and am going to try to replace it w/o removing the master cylinder. Bleeding brakes isn't one of my favorite things, and if I can avoid it I will. Will let y'all know how it works out..

Agree. And Autopals are junk too and have a crappy beam pattern. The Hella E-code housings are the best; nice sharp cutoff and have great beam focus where it needs to be.

The plastic tank on my 96 XJ master cylinder needs to be replaced. Replacement reservoirs available from both Mopar and aftermarket. Has anyone done this? Can you pop it off (after removing the brake fluid of course) w/o bleeding the system afterward? I'm thinking yes, since the master cylinder...

I made up a bushing press from fittings and hardware in my junk box. Worked great pressing the new UCA axle bushings in. Nevermind - the image isn't coming up.

I have the same OME coils with the same lift. The WJ LCAs are completely boxed in and stout, and the larger bushings provide much better handling than the crappy OEM XJ arms. They also provide plenty of room to adjust your caster using factory shims with 2-1/2" lift. You don't need adjustable...

Those are factory 15"x7" 5-star wheels with 5.25" BS. And yes, if you have no lift you will rub the LCAs at full turn. The cure is to install Jeep WJ lower control arms. An inch or two of lift would help too, but for a street rig you can get by w/o a lift.

The 2nd hole wasn't enough hood opening to get in there and work comfortably w/o creasing your gourd on the hood. The limiting struts allow the hood to open about midway between the two prop rod holes, and I have plenty of room now.

I noticed in one of your pics the right wiper arm looked like it's not there. I have a regulation Reflexxion cowl hood, and had to add limiting struts to the hood so it wouldn't open so far and hit the right wiper post. Does your hood do the same? And excellent work - your hood looks great!