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Nice. I forgot all about Okie Terry's skid like that. Looks like I'm going to have to do some copycatting here soon.

Loose front shock bolts?

I hope you haven't pissed her off lately. Kidding aside, the suggestion for the driveshaft u-joints is a good one. Have you ruled out control arm bushings? I don't mean to start you on a wild goose chase, but depending on how the "pop" sounds, that might be a possibility.

If it's a minor bang, check the rear driveshaft u-joints.

Glad to hear you got it fixed. How'd you arrive at the coil as the culprit?

Did you check the MAP sensor?

I'll bet I can find a small stockpile somewhere here in Toledo--time to get on the phone. Thanks for the heads up.

Yes, they're fine. Just make sure to get them seated well at the base.

You betcha!

Never had one and I'd take it off and throw it away if mine had come with one. I've been in plenty of mud and deep water (unfortunately), but I always stop on the way home and really spray out the alternator and bottom of the Jeep. It's the crud, not the water that kills alts.

True--for a new one. Scour the Land Rover boards and you'd find one pretty reasonably cheap. The cheaper ones come from Defenders and Range Rover P38s, I believe. EDIT: To be honest, you'd probably come out ahead making one if you can weld and bend a small diameter/light gauge tube frame, and...

A jump seat from a Land Rover might work, too, but would probably be more expensive than jdougn's suggestion. It would be more compact, however. http://www.roverconnection.com/Disco%20Acc%20Pix/discojumpseat.htm

I wouldn't cut the crossmember bolts. They're bad enough to deal with when they're whole.

The t-case skid is held in place by nutserts which can be a pain because they tend to spin, in my experience. I had to cut the bolts and then drill out the nutserts. As far as the front skid, you don't need to remove anything, except perhaps if you have the rubber engine splash shield.

Are you referring to the seam where the two panels meet at the top of the inner fender? If so, just use a grinder and make slits, then whack them up until they're flat.

See, that sucks. Why the hell would a dealer's parts dept. need a VIN? I've had that happen, too, when I've gone in with part numbers (even cross referenced with other models and years so there's no confusion). Ahh. . .don't mind me. I just get peeved because I live in the "home of the Jeep,"...

It can take a max. torque value of 1885 lb. ft. The number for the 231 is based upon a manual transmission (2.2 load factor).

I've read to smear a bit around the seat before putting the seal in.

GoJeep gives the info. for both types of relays.

Did you ever see the setup GoJeep made for someone? http://www.go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoLightRack.htm