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Hello, Old thread, I know....But I figured I should at least wrap this one up, since i spaced it for a couple years, ha. Recap: After I installed the lift and extras on my XJ, I was having driveline vibes, generally around 70mph and/or under hard acceleration. They weren't awful, but enough to...

I'm just trying to wrap my mind around this....To rotate the pinion up, I would have to shorten the lower CA's....Is that going to pull the axle toward the rear of the jeep more, without having adjustable upper CA's?

From what I've read, that's correct. It seems like people are shooting for 1-2 degrees below, so that's what I'm after I suppose. Also, I contacted that vendor on Jeepforum, so we'll see what happens there

Shows how much I deal with alignments....I leave that garbage to the people who deal with it everyday. Ok, I'll have to look into those this week. As far as the rear situation, I'll put my original axle shims back in and go from there....followed by removing my front drive shaft for a test drive.

If control arms are they way to go, is it worth my time/money to do a full set, or just the uppers? What brands have you guys had good luck with that aren't big $$$?

I can do adjustable CA's, but only if it is justifiable....I'm not super familiar with when it is appropriate to put them into place I've had two alignments within the last 1.5 years with no uneven tire wear or tracking. They talked about caster being out, but said they couldn't do much about...

Specs: 2000, 4.0, AW4, Np231, D30 (4.10/truetrac), Chrysler 8.25 (4.11/truetrac) Unfortunately, the lowering kit is my cross-member.....the factory one is long gone. I did fab up some 1/4" plates to raise the t-case 3/4" to return it close to the stock position, which made things worse, so I...

I did install a SYE from advance adapters. It should drop both, but not quite evenly. I only suggest the drop because the pinion angle in the front is 4 below the center of the shaft, similar to the rear angles when I was on my old axle shims. Figured it was a potential solution to fix both...

Hello, I'm sure this isn't a new topic, but I cant seem to find a solution to my drive line vib woes. I currently get vibes starting at about 60+ mph and it's important to note that I drive quite a bit on the hwy, esp with inter coming. I have a 3.5" OME lift, that turned out to be closer to...

So, I've been messing with my angles and I seem to be getting closer to the goal. From what I've been reading, as your drive shaft approaches 15+ degrees of slope, vibration becomes inevitable. It sounds like 10 degrees is the ideal working limit.....auto manufacturers seem to avoid anything...

I appreciate the offer for sure, but I ended up taking the shims that were too steep and ground them down to get the angles I needed. Currently, I'm right about 1.5 degrees below the center-line of the drive shaft at the pinion, to allow for pinion rise, as others have said. Also, my drive shaft...

Based on research and what I'm hearing, the 4 degree shims were ok, but based on looking at those previous angles and re-checking my current ones, 6 is where I need to be for that drive line to be in phase....It's incredibly frustrating buying parts that are out of spec. I'll take it out for a...

I just did a calculation, based on the dimensions of the "6*" shims....Turns out they are actually between 8-8.5*.....not ideal. I confirmed this by looking at pictures of my angles with the previous shims. I haven't driven the jeep yet...I suppose that's next on the agenda. I would like to...

I bought the OME 3.5" lift and it is closer to 4". Although the lift height shouldn't matter in this case

Hello, I have a lifted XJ with light vibes at highway speeds. Today I replaced the axle shims, going from 4* to 6* in hopes to correct any vibes. As it turns out, the "6*" shims were a little over what they claimed to be. As it stands, I'm reading right at 15* on my pinion and 13.5* on the...

Forgot to update this one.....I ended up just getting the "high $" Autozone version. Works fine, it was like $30 out the door. Couldn't justify another $130 for Hesco's version.....

UPDATE: Well, 8,000 miles later and I still stand behind the choice of 4.10's for those tires (265/70 r16). If this was a dedicated trail rig, I would have chosen deeper gears, but considering this is my daily driver, it works well. During the the R&P install I also put in a set of Detroit...

I ended up replacing all the exterior lights and disconnecting the wiring I had hooked up to power my trailer lights....This time I had no running lights, although everything else worked the way it should. Turns out, I got a bad bulb right out of the box. After I went back though and put second...

I haven't messed with the bulbs unfortunately. The brake lights do get SLIGHTLY brighter, but not enough to easily notice during traffic conditions.

Hello, Recently I've had a few friends tell me that my brake lights are stuck on. Really what's happening is when my running lights are turned on, they operate way brighter than they have in the past, so when I brake there is BARELY any difference. With my running lights off the brake lights...