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I wouldn't say I'm particularly hard on the Jeep. It has 2.5'' of lift in the front due to winch bumper and winch, but I'll be going back up to 3.5'' soon. 32'' tires, not a rock bouncer but do rock crawling so not 100% sure why the tracbar failed. I'm thinking I will look in to the RE one and...

After 1 year and 15000 miles I need to replace my IRO tracbar. The weld in bung has wollowed out - just like it has for a few other friends who bought them. Overall, I'm not really impressed with their tracbars. The Jam nut was tightened and lock tited on, and the bung still wollowed out. I'm...

Ah you're right. When I looked at it quickly earlier I just saw people beefing up the factory one or ordering OE equivalent.

Glanced over that earlier but I want to start fresh. Thought about that but there wouldn't be clearance. I'm only at 2'' in the front right now. Do you have regular right front moutns?

Random question, but do they just magnaflux or something a cracked cast iron head, true it up and send it out?

Well the bracket ripped off. I boogered it back on, added some gusseting and it held up for a few off road trips until I drove into a tree. Then it fell off. I have a friend who is an actual welder by trade, so the next time I smack a tree I will take the mounts off the frame! What...

The floor on my 2000 overheated when I had oxygen sensor issues causing it to run pig rich. Cats get warm!

I believe the 90 wouldn't have the C101 connector on the firewall right?

2000 Cherokee. Had a few ripped wires that were shorted together. Had to play a bit of patch and splice last night. Along with replacing the fuses and relays. Protip: Make sure your bank 2 sensor 2 wire doesn't end up in your driveshaft. B1S1/B1S2 - bank 1 sensor 1, bank 2 sensor 2 ... It's...

Simple job turned into a major one. I now have Oxygen Sensor Heater codes for B1S1, B1S2. Over the weekend I replaced the B2S2 oxygen sensor. Because of the stupid design where the sensor literally touches the bell housing, the wires broke on the OE sensor and shorted together - I always had...

I popped a line off of mine and ran it until it wouldn't go about 50,000 miles ago. No issues that I can tell. And that's why they can go more than 100K without a rebuild! Well, if it was a Chrysler unit, it would be about 30K haha.

My Jeep has a P0158. I believe the wires on the sensor finally broke and shorted. The driver on the ECU is not burnt out (yet) as it will occasionally go out. Have checked the voltage on the sensor, and it's reading 1V ... but will show .3-.8 when it's working. The problem is - and this is why...

I posted voltage of all 5 wires going to the switch on both sides in the first post. I can't jumper or operate the window regulator of either rear window myself ... not sure why I can't figure that one out.

Same behavior from the master switch - I can hear it trying to go up ... but it can't since it is already up ... but it won't go down.

You'd have to swap on your whirley bob in place of the cam stator, for one. Use your intake manifold and everything attached to it. Exhaust ports are going to be different so you will have issues with exhaust manifold gaskets lasting a year. And you will have to make/buy adapters to make the...

I'm really confused here. I'm not sure what I am supposed to be seeing for voltage ... or what the connectors are supposed to do. Can someone help me! The window tries to go up (but it's already up). It won't go down, I don't hear the motor attempt to do anything to go down. I hear it try...

That Jeep would be sold up here in Central NY state as rust free ... There's no rust on that

Heater control valve was thrown in the junk pile along with all of the factory vacuum lines. Only vacuum lines that are left are just the basics. No HCV, CAD ... airbox flipper. New Cam chain, grounds, indexed TPS, opened up crank sensor, new vacuum lines and it runs real good.

I know 3 or 4 people locally (Upstate NY) who tried the dirtbound kit and either had the fan motors fail, or had even worse overheating than before. On warm days, a stock geared Cherokee on 33s and a partially caked condenser is just going to make a lot of heat - and add in the AW4 salamander...

I know, was just joking. I was always afraid of Renix until I helped a friend bring back a 1990 that should have gone to the crusher. I'm more comfortable with them once the exploding coolant bottle is gone (HO cooling swap).