Search results

Thanks👍

I'll replace the fan clutch, a inexpensive test, thanks

Thanks, I will look into the 3 fan unit. It fits ok with the stock rad?

Thanks, color was good, flushed 2 years prior

I have a 1996 that I bought new. In any traffic or stop and go driving, the needle goes over 210. I usually pamic and turn on the heater, no fun in the summer. I have 130K miles on the girl. I just had (another) a water pump failure which I replaced. I also at the same time put in a new...

I have a KnN, no issues.

I had a questionable alternator. Based on what I came up with, I went with a new Remy unit from Rock Auto, 80 something bucks. It's only been a little over a week but it's working fine, it's a nice heavy piece. I used that brand in my '85 S10 3+ years ago with no complaints. You have to take the...

While I'm on the 2nd CC on my 96, I have a new Walker one that I paid about $50 net a few years ago. Used a AA $40 off coupon code + a walker rebate. Also got the same deal on one for my '91 Nissan that still has its original.

Hate to mention it, but I have an '85 S10 Blazer 2.8 with 97K original miles with original WP and starter. Last year it needed Radiator and heater code which I replaced.

I thought Dex Cool was the kiss of death to your cooling system, that was the talk years back. I had a lot of slop in the pully and there was no hint of leakage till it leaked out suddenly. I will monitor the slop now more closly. 35k miles is 5 years for me so if i still have the vehicle then...

Just ordered a Gates, rumor it's the same as Napa.

Damn, maybe I should back off the next one and give it more "slack." This last one went all at once, wasn't dripping. Pulley has a wobble and that's where it leaked out. Wife was out in it, less than 2 miles from home. I went there with 7 -1 gallon jugs. Filled it up and drove home, stopped...

On my 96XJ, the oem water pump lasted 62K miles. 1st replacement lasted 29K miles and the 2nd replacement lasted 36K miles. That was a Bosch. So at 127K miles, I'll be on the 4th pump. I'm careful not to over tighten the serp belt. Where can I get a better pump? Thanks, Fred

I swapped in the old (oem) starter verified good by Autozone and Advance Auto, it started right up and cranked up quicker than the other. I'll play it by ear, do some test runs and only shut it off when I'm back in the driveway. If no problems, I'll buy a new starter. I replaced the oem one...

Thanks, is there such a thing as a dead spot on a starter? Where, if it ends up on this spot the starter won't crank?

UPDATE, just tried to start it and NOTHING, no crank, same as before. Lights work, gauges come on etc. Tomorrow I'll swap in my old oem starter which was verified OK this morning by both Autozone and Advance Auto.

Ok, it APPEARS to have been the NSS. It started right up after I installed the cleaned up switch. I lubed the internals with d-grease. I had cleaned the switch prior 7 years ago. I am not very happy with the crank speed after the new battery. Maybe I will treat the girl to a new HD starter...

Unless I did something wrong, it didn't jump. I cleaned the NSS and will put it back in tomorrow. I have an old starter which I'll try mext if necessary.

Thanks Tom, I will try that and I didn't think of the NSS.

I just bought the cheapie HF unit a couple of days ago. $16 after the 20% coupon. Works great, ok, sometimes running the needle flutters but it you "tap" the gauge it settles down. Good for the amount of times I'll use it. Just wrap the threaded ends with Teflon tape.