Search results

For now I blasted it back on with my impact wrench, as tight as it would get. Now I hear a very small popping sound on tight corners but I haven't yet had DW again. I'm pretty sure the problem isn't solved, but I have some other fires to put out first and need to be able to drive the jeep. It...

Grah, I thought it would be cake to take that bolt out but it's stuck spinning in place. Tried prying on it with no luck.

OK guys, since the last post I've done the following: All 4 TRE's replaced Durango steering gear with C-Rok brace RE adjustable UCA's New UCA bushings in the axle New front hubs Rotate & balance Trackbar bolt at axle end as tight as possible. Rides better than ever, but still, DW. At this...

I know this is deviating from the DW topic but .. the RE 3780 UCA's shortest length is 15 1/4 inches, and based on a table I found, that's the appropriate length for a 5" lift. At 3.5" of lift will these UCA's be too long?

The instructions that come with RE lift kits have a DW section that says less caster is better, is this true? I'm considering putting in adjustable UCA's, which will set me back about $160, but will also let me adjust the caster.

Lowrange2: "Most recent alignment shows total toe of +0.02 degrees and camber of 6.0 and 5.7 degrees left and right respectively." Sorry! Meant caster, not camber! That would be a ridiculous amount of camber too!

And, thanks for the advice! TRE, UCA, steering gear are, like Devilfrog mentioned, pretty much the only parts that haven't been replaced. They are what I'll be looking at next .. probably starting with UCA's. But I wanted to ask first to make sure I wasn't overlooking something obvious.

It's definitely real death wobble. Hitting certain types of bumps starts the DW and the only way to stop it is to slow down to below around 40 mph. The LCA's were replaced as part of the lift. Most recent alignment shows total toe of +0.02 degrees and camber of 6.0 and 5.7 degrees left and...

Confused ... will it the play cause it or not?

I did try to move the wheels around and found a LOT of play in the ball joints, which is why I replaced them recently. It really rides and handles noticeably better but despite the high hopes, the DW is still present. No noticeable play in the steering linkages, although it looks like there...

I am the mechanic. The UCA's have been on my mind. I wasn't so sure they mattered that much for DW but I guess I was wrong. With 240k on the clock I'm sure pretty much everything is worn out.

Gents, I started with a stock XJ with 208k that suffered DW. The first real step I took to address it was to purchase 5 new wheels and 5 new firestone tires and alignment. Problem not solved. Next I installed an RE 3.5" lift with new leaf spring packs and new sway bar bushings at around 230k...

OK .. used BJ installation tool to gently press on the dust boot. Now both BJ's installed on driver's side successfully. Anyone who finds this thread searching for how to replace ball joints, look at this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a3jjPouRdFw I suggest deviating from the Moog...

Disregard! I guess I needed a break to think a little more clearly .. used the BJ remover tool to get it out, cake! Now I'm stuck trying to get the lower BJ dust boot installed. The directions say to put it on prior to pressing it in .. but I pressed it in first. And frankly I don't see how you...

The upper ball joint stud pulled out of the socket entirely when I used the pickle fork on it. So the knuckle is off, with the upper stud still stuck in there. Any easy way to fix this? Is this an OEM upper ball joint? Thanks!

The original OEM bolts were on to begin with. Most of them had to be cut. One of them didn't cooperate until the welder came out. Here's one, you decide whether it makes sense to reuse it:

In theory, it's easier, cheaper, and faster to get them from Fastenal. In practice, it depends on what you need and whether you specify it correctly. In this case I wasted time and money by not getting the OEM parts. That being said, the new springs are on using OEM bolts at the rear...

Here's the Fastenal compared to the OEM part:

It looks like the Fastenal bolts will work fine for the front of the leaf springs, and for the spring-to-shackle connection, but there aren't enough threads for the shackle-to-frame connection. I'm thinking I'll get two of the $7 factory bolts from the local dealer to get it done.

Is it normal for the hanger wall to bend down onto the spring-eye/shackle bushing as you tighten the bolt? I'm sure it was bent outward a little when taking the old rusted stuff off.