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I just replaced mine on my 96 Cherokee. Broke the plastic interlocking tabs while changing the ignition lock cylinder. I'm convinced the part was designed for easy assembly in a factory and not for disassembly when repairs are needed. A new OEM part is not that expensive online and is probably...

I used some Teflon tape on the plastic fittings that came with the Wilwood kit to keep them air tight.

Mine came off pretty easily but I really took my time and worked it off slowly. Patience is the key if you want it to be a quick and cheap repair.

I've been happy with Valvoline PS fluid too.

While in the car, the mc is tilted which makes it difficult to remove all the air. I've done the classic bench bleed, with the mc in a vice on a bench. I was able to remove all the air after about 50 pumps. I've read you can jack up the back to level the mc to help clear the air. But...

My 1996 Jeep Cherokee just failed VA state safety inspection for a rusty floor pan on the front passenger side. I'm familiar with the repair but can't weld. Anyone know a welder in Central VA (Charlottesville) who does this type of work? I'm new to the area so any recommendations would be a...

My 1996 Jeep Cherokee just failed VA state safety inspection for a rusty floor pan on the front passenger side. I'm familiar with the repair but can't weld. Anyone know a welder in Central VA (Charlottesville) who does this type of work? I'm new to the area so any recommendations would be a...

Update: Used Torx 20 bit to remove upper and lower shroud. Then Torx 20 anti-tamper bit to remove ignition switch from column. Also Torx 20 anti-tamper bit to remove cylinder from switch. I tried the graphite which helped, but still not normal turning easily, so I'm going to replace the...

I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee, 4L, 4WD, Auto. My problem is the ignition switch. I can turn the key to the accessory position but not the on position. Works sometimes with a lot key wiggling but not steering wheel wiggling. I suspect it's the lock cylinder. I have a FSM so I thought I'd take...

I used power steering fluid as a lubricant but it was still near impossible to get the hose back on. I also tried making the hose stretch up some with a needle nose pliers but that helped only a little. I considered heating the hose but didn't know if that would weaken the hose.

I recently replaced a failed power steering pump. The hardest part of the job was getting the return hose off the old pump and back on the new pump. I broke the plastic resevoir trying to get the hose off so I was afraid to wiggle and push the hose too much to get it on the new resevoir. It's...

I bled the entire system, including a bench bleed of the master cylinder. I was a little concerned about the temps because similar readings on my BMW were only 100F. But I suspected the normal temps for the BMW would be lower (better brakes, better ventilation). The brakes feel ok. So if...

My front disc brakes on my 1996 Jeep Cherokee overheated (non-ABS, front disc, rear drum) to the point where smoke was coming from the right front wheel well. I changed the calipers, master cylinder, and proportioning valve. Also planned to change the brake hoses but couldn't get the flare...

I cross threaded the proportioning valve on my 1996 Jeep Cherokee w/o ABS. Just ordered OEM part online but part has been superceded (original part number 52129025, new part number 52128420AA). Anyone use this new part? Any differences that will make install a problem?

I have a 1996 Jeep Cherokee with 4.0 I6, AW4, NP231, D30 front and 8.25 rear. I would like to start doing more of the maintenance myself. In the FSM, Schedule A is more appropriate for the way I use the vehicle. I notice there is no mention of how often to change the axle/diff oil in Schedule...

I've noticed that many Jeep parts available online are manufactured by Crown. Is the quality of their parts better or equal to OEM? Or are they cheap replacement parts? I like a good deal but not if it means less durable materials or fitment issues.

I've seen that site and a few more. I was just curious what the specs actually say. Thought they might make for some interesting reading since it's a poplular forum topic and almost always generates strong opinions.

I've read the numerous posts about Dex III versus ATF+4. Anyone know where I can get a copy of the specs for Dexron III (GM 6297-M) and Mercon (Ford M2C185A)? No luck so far using the popular search engines.

I was tempted to get the city light version, put in a colored bulb, and wire them up to the parking lights. But I'm not sure it's worth the extra effort. I'll just be happy seeing the road at night with new E-code headlamps.

After reading the numerous posts about H4 conversions, I've decided to upgrade to Hella ECE/E-code lamps. But I didn't realize there was one more choice. Should I get the new lamps with or without city/position lights? Anyone have an opinion on which to get? Any info on how you wire the...