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Awesome work! Like the shockmount solution... yours look much nicer than mine but they ended up in pretty much the same place.
For the swaybar... I ended up with mounts coming off the top of the inner C. My swaybar is a bit wider from the looks of things though and where the arms kick out...
I think I had a non-abs parts Jeep at the time and may have swapped more than just lines but I'm honestly not sure... Regardless, here's what it looks like now.
Hard to get good pics since I relocated the washer bottle to where the ABS pump used to be.
Basically there's a left front, right...
I did this on my XJ several years ago so don't remember the exact details but I'll go snap some pics for you later tonight.
Don't use softlines. Just bend (or remake) the hardlines to go to the master instead of the abs pump.
If you end up trying to use a WJ shaft, they're neither cheap nor readily available. Most WJs use non u-joint shafts and the few that do are either already gone or got bent when the loader moved the Jeep around the junkyard.
I used one after I stretched the front on my XJ and when it started...
Awesome build, thanks for sharing all the details with everyone, and congrats on getting it running/driving again!
Looks like you haven't swapped the built axle in yet? Curious to see the final details on it when you get it in.
This picture shows how much farther inboard stock LCA mounts are compared to the RuffStuff brackets. This was my plan but the shocks wouldn't clear the calipers at full lock.
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That was my initial plan - I've seen guys do it with stock LCA mounts and it looks like it works well there. But the ruffstuff brackets move the LCAs further outboard and there wasn't room. I ended up mounting mine on top of the LCA when I couldn't fit it else where.
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How are you planning to do shock mounts? I ran the ruffstuff brackets with a 3" outer sleeve and had trouble fitting shock mounts where I wanted to. Made things work eventually but it took a few tries
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Forget to disconnect the cables when you know you have a parasitic drain you haven't fixed yet... Multiple times.
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Advance Auto and O'Reilly's both offer AGM batteries under their house brands for a similar price. Had the O'Reilly's and it lasted 4 years before dying... A bit premature I thought, but I also didn't take care of it. Currently have the Advance auto AGM but it's only been installed for a few...
The second pin is the door stop... Keeps the door from swinging too far open since the door checks are no longer used. It's part of the factory hinge, just leave it the when you make your cuts.
Yes I cut the bottom part off of the top hinge - easier to align things that way.
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Did exactly what you're proposing - drilled for bushings, welded pins to the door side. Has held up great for several years.
Bushings are 7/16 OD, 5/16 ID. McMaster part number 2938T32.
Originally used standard grade 8 bolts for the pins but after one winter had rust issues. Bought stainless...
How'd you attach the lines to the cooler? If you just hose clamped them, keep an eye on them. I had one that popped off on a cold start. After that I bought hard line to AN adapters so I don't have to worry about it anymore.
I know that's on the low pressure side of the system but without barbs...
Where at in Missouri? I'm in the St. Louis area, have a spare front driveshaft and a used hack n tap SYE I'd be willing to sell together for $125.
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My factory sliders were hacked up from a previous custom seat install so I built all new mounts from scratch and just used some universal sliders on the driver's side. The passenger side is fixed. I'll take some pictures this weekend, apparently I don't have any saved.
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I've got standard width daily drivers in my Jeep and they're pretty snug... Not sure the +2" width would fit.
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