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thanks joe, i got it running right, all it needed was to move the distrib one tooth to the right. you are the man, and thank you to all that gave input. now if i may ask for more help, i still cant get my speedo to work. ask any questions about that you would like, im just not sure what...

yeah winter came early this year, snow/flurries in Atlanta usually doesn't come until Feb or late Jan, mother nature decided to keep us on our toes this year

ok reporting back, zero side to side movement with cap off, and bolt with c-clip that goes into the block holding the distributor secure, tight. ill try moving the the distributor teeth tomorrow, since its night here and 20 something degrees

so to check the distributor, i need to find tdc, and the rotor button should be on the distributor caps pin(marked as cylinder 1) is that correct?

ok yes, it did exactly as you said it should. 40psi rock solid when giving it throttle

ok so the psi i get when i unplug the vacuum line from the fpr is 40 psi. side note: i can feel a vacuum on the vacuum line that goes to the fpr. when i plug the vacuum line back into the fpr and give it some throttle, it goes up to 35 psi, and then the engine starts to break up... im guessing...

fuel pressure is at 32 psi at idle, and doesnt go down when you give it throttle

got the fuel leak fixed, but im still having the stuppering problem, that the original link describes. idle is perfect, sounds great, no more knock, just still have the bogging and sputtering problem, im going to re-adjust the tps, and see if that fixes the problem, any other suggestions?

and when you say, "Goes in o-ring, spacer, o-ring. don't drive around with that thing leaking, fire, ka-boom, etc." "spacer" does that mean the clip thing?

went to autozone to get a replacement hose, its still leaking, it seems its not getting a full seal, so im going to the junkyard tomorrow to look for a replacement. i think the aftermarket hose doesn't come with o-rings, kinda weird

as the title says i have a leak on my fuel rail where it connects to the hose(the section that is closest to the firewall) how should i go around fixing this? FYI:, i have another thread on this sitre about my jeep bogging and surging when you give it gas, i think this might be my problem let...

so would an over rich condition give me the knock that im hearing? i thought that was a lean condition.... so when i index the distrib. should i set it at cylinder 1, (eg. the button should be touching the caps pin for cylinder one) or should it be right before it or should it be right after it.

the motor went from the non-HO(the one i blew) to a HO motor. all the accessories are the original non-HO if that helps

UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!!!!! sorry to bring an old thread back to life, but i never got to figuring out the problem with my jeep, due to a car accident that put me in the hospital. to answer the above questions: the method of adjusting the tps was this web site...

4.0 aw4, I'm sure some of u guys know me well here for trying to fix my rig, well I finially got it started but now another problem. It runs but if u give it any gas it falls on it face, it bogs, surges, basically doesn't want to drive unless u barely give it gas. So what should I look at...

Plugs are in correct firing order. All the wires coming off the battery are brand new. Sorry if I don't jump on the idea that's it's the flexplate, when I've pulled this motor 5 times now, and I just replaced the flexplate, my reasoning is due to the fact that the cyclinders have compression...

Yes it is, I had improperly assembled the torque convertor to the tranny, after I did a motor swap, back last winter. I ended up replacing the torque convertor, tran oil pump, and the flexplate, and a couple seals. Joe: the cps doesn't have any physical damage, and has the orginal bolts in it...

Well I just unplugged the cps, and the starter turned the motor over and over with out the stopping as I have described, keep in mind that I have all the spark plugs back in the motor. As soon as I plug the cps back in the starter turns the motor over a couple times and stops( the same symptoms...

Well after removing all plugs and starting the motor, the motor did turn over and the problem seems to go away. And after replacing them it came back again. The starter cranked about 8 times then would make the same noise as earlier. Retrying, it would crank 2-3 times and stop again. It seems...

Got to ask, what is cranking it with no plugs in going to show? Fuel?