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"When the trans goes into lockup i flip my switch and the trans drops out of locked like I wanted. But after a few seconds goes back into lockup. wtf?" "I think you should educate yourself more on the AW4" "You are most definitely on the wrong path here in forcing your converter to stay...

Yes i did. Strange? Ya maybe Potentially insafe? not anymore than removing swaybars. One person told of another way of doing what i wanted to do but that method trips the CEL. I wanted to mimic a brake pedal press to tell the computer to unlock. Doing what i want and not tripping the CEL.

Some points had been made and I made it clear it was of no concern. Then my intelligence was attacked. All along not being helpful to the strange problem i was encountering that prompted me to try here for insight in the first place. Sorry i wasted my time.

should have just taken the exit ramp and avoided this very unhelpful post.

Im on the path i want to be on. And if you play with the signal between the computer and the trans you will trip a light when it commands lockup but doesn't see it.

Maybe you should read the post and then you would see you stated the very problem. The need for a good cool due to the aw4 a big heat generator. +325hp? Neat? Anyone want to add the classic "i have been a tech for 50yrs" reply next?

Look im well aware of the aw4 short comings with its little converter being a heat generator. And the other heat problems the XJ has and the reduction in mileage due to a constant converter "slip" state. Another reason why posting looking for insight is my last resort. Im looking for...

Over heating wont be a problem and fuel mileage went down with even the idea of lifting a XJ. Just dont want it to lockup when it wants and only when i want.

Thanks! I did read that the other day along with a lot of other posts before posting. This was my last resort. But i agree its a strange game one. Oh and my add in switch ohms out and is good.

I know the trans wont override a brake press signal and stay in lockup on its own. Just can figure out what else is commanding it. I have the wiring schematic and i do not have cruse control. And have eliminated the cruse control circuit from the brake switch. I see that down the line...

Ha! Was clear and to the point but left out one of the most important parts. 97

I want to prevent the trans from going into lockup with a switch. To do this i figured i would just intercept the wire going to the module from the brake switch and toss a switch in. The brake switch grounds when off the pedal and when you press the brake that connection is interrupted...

My 97 idle falls a little when the ac comes on. I had always thought it should bump up spme when it clicked on. sorts like the extended idle switch does. At time my idle is very low with the ac on because of this.

I dont get hung up on the 88 to much and when i do most of the time it was a poor line choice. I did however make a ramp out of 1/4 plate leading up to that big lip on the bottom. Slides over most things with that.

If you want it to handle better on snow covered roads and dont care about wheeling then you dont want to install any traction aid in the axle. Spend the money on a good set of studded snows and winter wheels. 100 times better.

some years will have the charcoal canister in that location. I just deleted the vac ball all together.

Friend had a bent output on a used tcase. And it was not bent much at all!

If you put a good amount of weight on that slider it will bend up and if its close to the doors then it will hit. I have 1/4 supports going to the plated Unibody and its amazing how much it will move.

why change out the polly for a SFR? I find the poly unit to be solid even with the low gearing.

Trust me the trans has space. if you do the full clock you will need to cut an area in the floor to clear the large case. My 242 is almost level and well above my crossmember. https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/transfer-case-clocking-drill-jig.html