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What are you using for a crossmember/skid? I want to go to SFR's 4-link, but theirs is only compatible with the 231 unless you want to hack and weld. Seems like there's very little on the market that will accommodate the slight extra drop of the 242 and 241.

Aren't the ones that require you to grind a tooth down to fit the cross pin into the carrier 'thick'? Or are they just thick-er?

It's like plastic/nitrile compared to a traditional viton o-ring. And the square edging is far too uniform and consistent to have started out as one.

Heim kits are popular because they are very strong, but also generally less expensive than a TRE kit. The biggest problem with them is the high-clearance drag link, which has a bend that kicks out in front and creates an off-axis point of mass to bounce up and down on the misalignment spacers...

The TJ 241s just have a tone ring with sensor pickup, but there is a module you can install inline between the case and the harness and it'll work just fine. https://webshop.healtech-electronics.com/shop/sh-v4a/ is the module, and SHA-J01 is the plug/harness that goes with it. Since it's...

That's just in a single fan open air scenario, though. When you have them mounted in the shroud, the separating vanes will increase their efficiency and effective CFM. They could be putting out as much as 900-1000 CFM each. I have that exact setup with the first fan on the low stage trigger...

You can still find the SPALs floating around online, #30100435 I picked mine up one at a time over the course of a few months, all on ebay for $50-$60 each.

I have the same Fox stabilizer and it sounds like maybe it was just overfilled during assembly. Mine feels about the same as any other aftermarket one that I've had in the past (OME, Bilstein). I think they're only supposed to have about 15-20 PSI of nitrogen in there, but you need something...

SOLD!

I did have a 5th, but it was almost brand new and ended up going to a buddy who needed a spare for some trips over the passes this winter.

Great shape, no sidewall gouges or chunked lugs. Rotated every 5K, evenly worn. Still have about 11/32" tread left. $450

Most of the Raptor liner kits include a gun. I've got a 4 liter kit that I'm about to spray the interior with.

Dakota Digital and HealTech make digital adapters for it, and I think Superlift still makes one, too. For my 241OR swap I used the HealTech SpeedoHealer v4 on which is plug and play and can be adjusted quickly and easily for any tire size and gear ratio combo.

Sure, anyone can do it for cheaper if they enjoy running around and looking for parts that aren't too crusty. There's very few junkyards near me and even fewer with XJ or equivalent parts, so for $350 or whatever it was, I didn't really sweat it and it was nice to have brand new, clean parts. I...

G2 makes a kit, it includes everything but the prop valve and parking brake cables. I think it's basically the same parts that are found on late '90s Rangers and Explorers.

The very last post, the red one? It's identical except for the logo cutout.

So long as it has decent frame tie-in brackets, it should be fine. Looks like this guy on CF has a similiar one: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/goliath-offroad-winch-bumper-review-234864/index2/

Looks like it's the 'Rocker', they've just updated the design a bit since that one. Now it has more of a 'step down' to the middle section instead of those little ramps.

The tie rod has never really been an issue and the drag link not so much on pavement, but on washboard can be a real nightmare. I've since clocked them, put a little blue loctite on the threads, and cranked down the jam nuts as tight as I could manage and everything seems to be quiet. The only...

Either MontanaFab's, or NickInTime's that he just released, which is completely plug-and-play with no wire cutting or splicing. https://nickintimedesign.com/product/aw4-nifty-shifter-jr-v1-97/