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i already made a block off plate for the EGR when it was first mentioned and all the different things that could be wrong, figured easier to just build a block off plate. its pretty frustrating cause i don't have much time to work on it right now, and everytime i go to work on it, i end up...

bump, for anymore input.

retested with analog meter and there doesn't appear to be any bad spots in the TPS... and yes, when i disco vac stuff to diag i always plug the van hole.... any other thoughts?

TPS passed with a digi meter with a very quick refresh and i went slow, and it doesn't really appear that the issues crop up at a specific throttle position... I think the cooling system is fine... it appeared to only act up when I had the vac hose going from the firewall side of the intake...

ok, definately has nothing to do with the EGR system. any other thoughts? also, to add, during testing/etc today i took it on a bit of a drive and had no issues with the cooling system....

where are the transducer and solenoid? is there a way to effectively just bypass this whole system? seems like alot of nonsense to me...

The specs: 1990 XJ, Renix 4.0, 30k miles, manual. The issue: While driving and NOT heavily accelerating, just cruising along maintaining speed, I've got a wicked misfire/stumble. Seems to do it at any RPM as long as there isn't alot of load on the motor. At Full throttle or even 3/4 throttle...

Yee haw. Well finally picked up a fuel pressure tester kit. I'm sitting around 20-30psi during idle, no difference if i unplug the FPR or not. When I accelerate it bounces around sometimes spiking up to 39psi. Sounds like the pump, but any chance that its the FPR?

http://seattle.craigslist.org/kit/cto/1110843899.html Soooo.... 4.56s, a spool, atlas, mild lift=$12k..... Hmm... Thoughts? maybe now is a good time so sell mine....

iring order is good, one of the first things i checked after i had issues when i did the wires originally. i may do the compression test at some point, but this is a fresh-ish motor (rebuilt 20k ago) and aside from slightly stumbling in this limited rpm range, it runs/ran great. I'll prolly...

I think it depends on the sensor. Obviously the more "important" sensors IE MAP and TPS may have a very adverse effect on how the car drives, and in some cases depending on the engine management, will make the car undriveable. Also, a fun update as to where I'm at: TPS: good (tested damn near...

I unplugged the O2 sensor today, no difference. It seemed to run a bit better when it was cold, then once it warmed up same thing its been doing, acceleration includes misfires and sputtering till it gets to about 3000rpm then it pulls just like normal. I drove it to again today, just keeping...

Oh, and to further clarify: The new plugs/wires are in it after I went through a couple sets of each and found no difference. Also this is a manual tranny, hence the voltages I refer to as "in spec" are of the .17% variety. And yes, the throttle valve adjust screw is set up with a slight...

Ok. I'll try not to vent too much here, but I will say its amazing how many people cut you off when thats the last thing you need to happen cause you're limping a jeep home that will barely run and takes about a full minute to get close to an acceptable speed....makes me want to stab people...

Well, pulled the IAC, cleaned it, it had a little gunk in it. Put it back in and now it idles like its supposed to. BUT. Now it won't accelerate worth a damn. Coughs, sputters, and misfires. If i'm just sitting there if I can get it to rev above 3500-4000 it smooths out and revs right up...

IAC is plugged in and the connections are good. I pulled it to see if it made a difference while unplugged, same with the TPS, neither made the idle drop. I'll pull it and see if it needs a cleaning. Hope this works :-p. I need to get home tonight.

So the plot changes a bit. I finally noticed that my ballast resistor had disintegrated into nothing. Went to the FLAPS and picked up a new one. Now it won't die, BUT its idling at 2500 rpms now. And maybe its just me, but it appears to still have a slight hesitation if you flip the...

So I've got a 1990 Renix 4.0. Just did the plugs and wires, NGK plugs and some "premium" napa wires as well as cleaned the airfilter. Went to start it, and it started like normal and revved to 1000-1200 rpm. As the idle began to settle down to normal, it starts missing and slowly the idle...

http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=984807

cool, thanks for the suggestions guys. they've been posted in the for sale thread for awhile and nobody has wanted them, so off to the scrapper they go. couple D30's and a D35. if you look in my old threads you can find the specifics if you're interested. otherwise it sounds like that maple...