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Check the spline count of the Ba10's output shaft. Compare it to the Ax15. I believe they are different. If they are, you will need to change out the input shaft on your transfer case. It's easy to do, but requires a complete tear down of the transfer case. From a "vetteboy" post: Keep in mind...

To get the same CFM out of an independent, DC motor driven A/C, as you would with an OEM engine mounted compressor (Sanden), you would need a motor capable of approximately 4 to 5 HP. That baby would be large, and suck up battery/alternator output like you wouldn't believe. Your best bet is to...

I'd suspect the wiring harness would not allow the O2 sensor to be moved excessively, and as stated previously, the O2 has a heater to maintain op temp. Spend your time looking for wiring problem.

Waggy arm ~7"; XJ ~5.5" But waggy arm is basically flat, while the XJ arm has 3 to 4" drop. Here's what you need: http://rustysoffroad.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=rustys&Product_Code=RS-DPA2&Category_Code=ste

Have you had it SMOGed lately? If so, what are he numbers? The print-out will indicate fuel mixture at idle and cruise. A lean idling engine can shake a little; especially if the motor mounts have hardened.

"Buyer beware" is the general legal rule--"sold as is" is presumed when buying a used vehicle from an individual, in most states. Hopefully you will solve your vibration problem, and update this thread for others to learn from.

If you change the position of the axle by changing the length of only one set of control arms (uppers, or lowers only), you will change castor and pinion angle. Extending the LCA's without extending the UCA's will increase castor and rotate your pinion downward.

Thought I'd bring up the fact that the Rubicon D44 front axle "C's" are different than older D44 "C's". Not sure what affect, if any, the difference in the "C's" have on the inner axle lengths, but you may want to consider that before you cut your tubes. I believe the axle u-joint has to...

Here's the deal: You appear to be confusing pedal feel with hydraulic pressure. Different animals. With the engine off, or with the vacuum line disconnected from the brake booster your pedal feels hard because you have no power assist; without the power assist, the actual hydraulic pressure...

I'll give some general OPINIONS, since I'm not specifically experienced with the '99 XJ, but have done more than one engine conversion in my time. First, I'd put the probability of fit at 95%, as long as you accept the need for minor engine compartment mods to accommodate the slight differences...

Per FSM for '88 Cherokee, you measure the distance from the top of the front axle tube, near the inner "C", to the bottom of the frame rail directly above it. The stock measurement should be 6.75+-.5 inches. For the rear height, measure from the top of the axle tube to the bottom of the frame...

AS I recall, the plastic will self-destruct, as designed. I think you still have air in the system.

The primary purpose of the AIC is to increase air flow at idle, to compensate for the rich mixture used at start-up, when cold. Carbureted engines had a mechanical cam on the choke to increase air flow for the same reason. The AIC is also used to stop the engine from possibly stalling when you...

Not positive, but I believe there is a separate module--not the ECM--that turns on the maintenance light; just remove that module. It's somewhere up under the dash on the driver's side. And if you haven't done so by now, replace your O2 sensor--probably increase your mileage. Look here...

I had a clogged Cat once--only symptom was loss of power. No surging, or idle issues, just would not accelerate over ~50mph; very sluggish. I don't think a plugged cat is your problem. So after you pulled into a parking lot and cleared the code, how did it drive?

There are two temp sensors--one in back is for temp gauge only; one in front is for ECM only. It's the front one you want to check.

The XJ has a "hold-off" valve built into the proportioning valve. It's there to allow the rear drum brakes to engage slightly ahead of the disc fronts. The valve "holds-off" applying pressure to the fronts until ~100psi is sensed. It is not a check-valve.

Shouldn't require any adjustment if you keep track of any shims you remove, and make sure they go back exactly where they came from. If it were me, I'd check ring-gear back-lash with a dial-indicator before removing the carrier. Then after re-install, I'd check back-lash again, to insure it's...

You're saying "false lean" is the "most typical issue of the XJ"? My question actually was intended to be general, but using the OP's experience here as an example (for my edification). It would seem obvious that any exhaust leak that result in a false lean (O2 sensor tells ECM to add fuel...