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Yes, it MUST be urethane based. Anything else will probably separate and cause lifting - it's just not a road you want to go down.
Regular urethane base coat paint is what you need. Pick out a color, or get a paint code off of a car you like. Take it in, have them mix it up, then just add it...
I was giving the numbers so that you could tell me what kind of adjustments to make (i.e. move the carrier .003" closer to the pinion, etc.).
We don't have a housing spreader so I can't guess what the carrier preload is. It takes a couple big hits with a 4 lb deadblow to get the carrier fully...
Those pics were with the ring gear shim stack at 0.070" and the non-ring side at 0.026".
I know that the pinion preload is measured in in-lbs. I was referring to the shim stack that sets pinion preload.
Here's the latest attempt.
Pinion bearing preload is at 0.065"
Inner pinion bearing shim stack is at 0.026"
We left the backlash at 0.019", which I know is way too loose. After a couple hours of remembering which changes affected what tolerances, we got tired and came inside.
Here are some pics of our first attempt at setting up gears. We're using 4.56 Yukon gears and install kit.
Backlash: 0.008
Inner Pinion Shim Stack: 0.035
Pinion Preload Shim Stack: 0.075
Carrier Side Shim Stack: 0.031
Ring Gear Shim Stack: 0.066
Right now the pinion preload is about 20 in-lbs...
In most cases this is a safe assumption. If you really want some extra stick, pick up some adhesion promoter or epoxy primer. But I'd just shoot with with regular 2k urethane.
If you're talking about F150 or Bronco axles, it will be a high pinion Dana 44 front and Ford 9" rear. The front will have cast radius arm wedges (78/79 model year).
I helped install a set of TNT stiffeners this past weekend. The install was fairly straight-forward with no real difficulties. We drilled fifteen 1/2" holes per stiffener for rosette welds, as well as stitch welding the perimeter. Drilling the holes was time consuming but definitely not hard...