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This was the most recent thread you could find on door removal??
You have something misaligned if you are hitting the fender when putting your door on. How did you modify the door hinge?
Search JCR OTK. The topic has been covered in 100 different threads.
I went straight to Ruff Stuff heim steering. Tabs for the drag link welded on top of the tie rod prevent any rolling.
I don't think flipping the drag link is worth the effort. With the extreme angle up to the pitman arm, the only part of the DL you're likely to hit is right at the knuckle and the tire protects that. I'd say the tie rod is much more vulnerable.
I did this on my XJ for a while. I only raised the sway bar link on the driver's side, then cut and rewelded the one JKS link to shorten it.
If you go this route, be advised that only about an inch of the lower half of the endlink is threaded. I had to cut out a small section, then weld...
When I first upgraded my XJ's steering, I bought an aftermarket 'beefy' tie rod. Thing bent my first trip out. I think it was smaller tubing than the Moog stock replacement tie rod on my WJ...
I have some D2 driving lights in the grille of my WJ. They are really effing bright for how small they are. Love the driving lights for spotting deer on the side of the road.
Basically, they are bright enough to be used in place of headlights, I'll just say that.
Looks awesome. I ended up using the daystar TJ air vent to mount my switches. Pop out one of the upper air vents in the center console, pop in the new bracket, and mount carling switches. You can do two in each vent. It was a really handy spot for my ARB compressor and front locker switches...
The problem with making an official list like this is the Noobs will never read it, and just post repetitive new threads anyway. Probably should be a rule preventing anyone with under 50 posts from starting a new thread.
So Cal, do you recommend pulling the ball joints before welding in the gussets? I'd imagine the BJ gets super hot if you are putting that much heat in to the inner C.
www.ericsxj.com
Spend $200 and grab a CO2 tank. Then you can be the first to the beer when it takes you 1/4 the time of your friends to air-up your tires after a day of wheeling.
I had the Synergy brackets on my Jeep. They are a U-channel and fit very tight to the framerails. You will not be able to install them once stiffeners are welded on.
My suggestion would be to bolt the Synergy brackets as directed, then weld the whole bracket in as well. They have big...
With the rub rail on the rear quarter panel, you shouldn't be hitting the C or D pillar.
My plan was to make a tube that ran down the drip rail to supplement the rear quarter armor. Make it integrate into a hybrid cage or something.
I wheeled with a trail guide that had a TJ on 35" Krawlers with a super35 kit in the rear. We weren't on the hardest trails in the world, but he said it was a pretty solid setup.
Would I do it? Not a chance.
And to the above question, I prefer both axles locked, rear first.
I'd just drop the coin on Trucklites or JW Speaker headlights. Fix the source of the problem instead of buying crapy LED aux lights and blinding the whole world.
I did the Autopal H4 housings and the light was marginally better. Maybe the new harness would have helped.
On another note...