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If you trust your other gauges....then that sounds about it...your covering all your bases. I run mechanical water temp and oil pressure, since the stock electrical gauges can be as much as 15 deg / psi off at times.

part of the problem in winter when its very cold is that the battery may not be putting out the amps / volts to move the motors efficiently.... You may also notice your engine crank a lot slower in cold weather....this may be why the lube does not do the trick....maybe it needs more juice...

Steps 1-2-3.... To swap air box and washer res. there may be a clearance problem. The air box is fairly deep, and the "shock tower" in the fender sticks out pretty high. You may not get the clearance to mount a cone filter. If you did..it would be tight...and not enough air circulating it...

Not sure if the slot on the non-clipped axle is same diameter and would match the clip. Even with pulling the bearings, im not sure if you could make the outer bearing work....If you had the axles side by side you might be able to get a better idea.... :confused:

You need a c-clip axle to replace your busted c-clip axle. The non clip cannot go in since there would be no way to secure the axle into the housing. The c-clip holds in your axle, where as the non c-clip is held in the housing by 4 bolts at the drum brake.

Sounds like you might need a flasher relay to make it work....IF the brake lights make the red lights brighter (when you hit the breaks) and normal on headlights are a dimmer of the two....to make it work you would need to make the bright side of the bulb flash. (basically simulate taping the...

There should be zero play side to side...sounds like a possible dead pinion bearing...it may have cooked your gears if that's the problem.... But make sure that the yolk isn't cracked and causing the play....but if there is oil leaking...might be the bearing + seal...

Maybe its the wiring going into the computer...when you swapped computers it giggled the wires into a more positive contact.

You need a fuel pressure gauge to screw into the fuel rail to tell if there is pressure. On thing you might want to do quickly....is swap relay in the relay bank....One of them controls the fuel pump. Also check coil and make sure all wires going to coil are secure. Another way to test the...

You can run NOS with some good results as long as you follow the rules. :fuse: You must do a wet injection system... dry injection will toast your pistons. I would recommend removing the intake and tapping each intake runner with NOS and fuel jets. NOS should also not be used below about 3000...

Maybe a TPS issue?? Or a fuel delivery issue. Even though the fuel pressure is fine, you might have a MAP sensor problem, even and O2 sensor problem....It can cause you to lean out and create the stuttering.

Also...dont forget that your mileage is slightly lower due to the fact that your speedometer may not be calibrated for the 30 inch tires. Maybe its not so much your O2, but your speedo gear...:D You should be able to get that O2 sensor at a local parts store for a bunch less than the dealer.

I did it to an older sensor for my 88. It wont hurt to try, if it does not work, then you'll have some drivability issues :D

A friend with a 98 had a similar problem. Linkage going from the actuator to the lock had broken. Electric open/close did not work, but it could be forced with a key. I would assume you will easily be able to tell when you pop open the panel.

Invest in a whole set of torx.....they are essential to a do-it-yourself jeeper. I've experienced the same problem after i hydrolocked my motor. Idle was erratic. If a good cleaning does not help...then its the motor most likely.

Might also want to check MAP / change O2 sensor.... The problem you describe can sometimes be caused by the a lean condition. A lean condition is many times created by mixing many performance parts, or by worn electronics such as MAP and O2.

Lake- That T4 may work well, however can say until you find out what the compressor and turbine housing ratios ect. What trim is that thing running. The pure volume of a T4 used on a 7.0 is huge. Generally speaking without seeing any figures on it, Id say that the turbo wouldn't spool until...

One possible cause is that there are parts (yolks) that are slightly bent. I have a couple spare axles which have imperfect yolks which causes U-joints to slowly disintegrate from the poor angles it being forced to operate at. An accident or wheeling u-joint failure can easily cause yolks to...

Had one AW4 under water for 45 minutes (along with the rest of the jeep) Tranny was completely filled with water. Changes fluid twice. Every shop in town said it wouldn't last 200 miles...Lasted 40,000 and pulled strong....was changed for piece of mind...not failure. ya...its indestrucable. :D

vac lines that go to the t-case are for actuation of the 4x4 on your front axle, and turning on the vac switch under the coolant bottle that turns on the light on the dash that says 4x4. None of these lines run into the tranny...