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You sound very wise. You may not be, but you sound like it.

What's amazing? Oh wait, I know.

i'm not down on synthetics, jut don't see the need for one in my Jeep. I do know that the 10W30 Mobil 1 has produced about the highest iron wear rates of any oil I've seen UOA's for in the 4.0. I've also heard anecdotal reports that it makes the 4.0 noiser. And finally, I just don't care for the...

You can easily verify by doing--or looking at someone else's-- VOA's to see how much of what is where....

Me? Self-conscious? Guilty? Not even. Just wondering whether to respond to your post or not. As I said, the Chevron dude says the big uproar about zinc is misplaced. As for the heavier oils, have you thought about Delo in 15W40?

Which rumor? Are you talking to me or G?

I lived on the NC coast for the first several years I had my Cherokee and it gets friggin' hot there too. 10W30 was fine. A lot of people still believe thicker is better. My co-worker has an 89 XJ with 289K on it when he got rid of it, and it was running fine, no issues. 10W30 all the time...

Well, Chevron has always been pretty upfront and helpful when I call them.

I just got off the phone with a Chevron/Havoline Lube-Tek(ain't it cute how they spell that?) He told me that Chevron and others are trying to figure out where anyone got the idea that zinc is being reduced. He claims that only phos is getting reduced, and is being replaced with an equally...

Well, why not put your mind at ease and pony up for some VOA's? Why would you want to run a 20W50 anyway? And Mobil 1, at least in the 10W30 doesn't do much for wear in the 4.0, at least relative to such regular oils as Castrol, Havoline, and Valvoline.

But the black of Napa Gold, compete with racecar decal looks better!

I tend to agree with you...Oh my God! You said the F word! You used Fram? Well, now you're hosed. That's a horse of a different color! Your engine will soon fly apart and you will be damned to Hell for defiling it with a Fram! Heathen. (I use Fram for the first 4 years of my 96's life. Then I...

The sky could be falling too, but I doubt it. What will end up killing these engines will be a failure in the cooling system, resulting in overheating. Not the SM oils. I think if iron was flying off and out the exhaust, I'd be likely to notice.

Prepare to shit in your pants.:roflmao:

I used Castrol GTX 10W30 until 2000, since then it's been either Chevron Supreme or Havoline 10W30. They're very, very similar using the same base oil, with the Havoline (according to the Chevron techs) having slightly higher additive levels.

Do any of these articles, or you, consider the possibility that moly, boron, and/or other additives may very well be capable of doing what the zinc was supposed to be doing?

Havoline is an excellent oil, and still priced better than many. My UOA showed 313ppm of moly. Both the "older" SM version, and the newer "Deposit Shield" SM have been bringing in very excellent results.

As I posted on page 9 of this thread, zinc was 650 ppm, and Phos was 550, after 3k miles. Other UOA's show similar levels. The newer Deposit Shield UOA's show very similar amounts, while VOA's on the new stuff indicate that it starts out at about 850 for zinc and 750 for phos.

Well, I'm running Havoline in mine, these days, it's the SM flavor, and the UOA's are excellent-I realize you don't think that matters--and the engine is quiet, smooth and strong. I would bet that in the far-off future, when my engine gives it up, it won't be due to my choice of oil. I will keep...

You might want to give Auto-RX, sometimes it will slow down or stop weeping or leaking seals. My rear main has been weeping a little, not a lot, just enough to wet the bottom of the oil pan. Auto-RX has almost made that stop. Almost, but not quite.