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The secret to sliding a rubber hose over anything is glycerin. Get a small bottle at a drug store for a buck, lube up the inside of the rubber, and on it will slide. The glycerin causes no harm to anything in the system.

Two suggestions: Try reinforcing that one. I would lay up a couple of layers of fiberglass + resin on the back side to keep if from breaking. Looks fairly simple to weld up from small steel angle. Grind the welds smooth and paint and you would be set. Good luck.

I have read a couple of sources which claimed 94. However, my 94 has R12. Hopefully someone will know for sure. It almost sounds as if there may have been a midyear 94 switch to 134a, but I don't know that for sure.

I would have the alternator tested. Most auto part stores can perform a load test in the parking lot. You can perform a simple output voltage check with a voltmeter yourself.

Do you have a schraeder valve tool? If so, you should be able to remove the inner stem of the valve and just have an open port. We don't need schraeder valves on our XJs since they have the service valves. You're probably right that that is your problem. You can get the tools at any bike shop.

I will have to do a "spin test" and report back. As to the temps: When running the Jeep I can watch the temp gauge come up just to the 210 mark, then the thermostat obviously opens and it drops back down to what we'll call 190. Before changing the fan clutch, it would hang there if I was on...

Today I swapped in a new fan clutch on my 94 XJ, 4.0 with AW4. Sorry, no pics, but everything is pretty straightforward, so I don’t think the lack of pics will hurt. I used a new NAPA heavy duty fan clutch for the ZJ, which quite a few people have recommended. Symptoms were heating up in stop...

On the vapor canister hoses - the smog guy failed me because mine were looking pretty cracked and worn. I took out the hard plastic tubing all together and just ran hose the whole way. I got it at Autozone, you have to get fuel rated hose or it won't last. Pretty cheap. IIRC the end at the...

Vehicles have "secret" VIN locations (which usually aren't that secret). Call your local DMV or Highway Patrol and ask what you need to do on this BEFORE you buy it. They have a verification process that isn't too cumbersome. I had a 69 Ford van years ago that had had the driver door...

I agree, I would probably look at this rather than throw any money at a casting that might have a crack. I would probably gamble on a $100 complete used head before I'd gamble on a $100 valve job.

Not much, though. Shop has to tear the head down, tank and magnaflux the casting, mill the surface to get it flat. Grind/reface the valves, grind the seats, install new guides or drill out and put guide inserts in (don't ever let anyone knurl your old guides - I speak from experience on this...

I would probably run away from someone offering to do it for $100. The $380 noted above is about right. I think that's what I paid about 3 years ago, and that involved moving all the valves over to a new casting, since mine had a crack (did NOT include cost of casting, I lucked into that for...

My local Costco has them, in bins in the front of their tire shop next to the regular store. .40 (yes, forty cents) each today.

jack up a front wheel, check that it's dragging. Reach in and crack open the bleeder to allow a little fluid to come out, leave the bleeder open and see if the dragging is gone. If it is, then the system is holding pressure. If it still drags, it is something in the caliper/pad/rotor system...

Yes, exactly what winterbeater says above. Crack open your bleeder and see if that releases the drag. If it does, then your system is holding pressure somehow (check master cylinder, proportioning valve). If it doesn't release, then you have a mechanical issue at the wheel - either the...

I use to drive a 69 Ford Econoline van (1 ton, Dana 60 in the rear, wish I had that) that didn't have power steering nor power brakes (4 wheel drums). BIG steering wheel. What a beast, I would not choose non-power steering if there was a choice to be had. I have to say, though, that...

How does a compression test and cylinder leakdown test look after the swap?

Probably oxygen sensor, it controls air/fuel mixture and if it's running rich it is likely that. You did put in new plugs and change oil/filter before getting the smog test done, right?

I probably will take the calipers off again and make sure everything is free. We did clean and lubricate the rails the pads ride on, and also the slide pins/bolts, though we used grease and not graphite. What's bugging me is that both fronts are dragging, which makes me lean more toward a...

Unfortunately, I don't have a MT2500, but I can borrow one if I need it. That's the procedure I found also, here's the issue: Both front brakes were dragging, calipers were clearly not releasing all the way. I put new calipers on and bled using normal bleed procedures. The brakes are fine...