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The easy way around the engine controls is to install a conventional ignition and carb...the 4.0 damper will not work...there are three distinct 2.5 damper/belt drive packages..(A) rare '84/'85 v-belt drive used on base models with no power options...(B) early serpentine and (C) late...

I haven't been around in quite some time but I stop in from time to time and browse around. There is a question regarding the fitment of a double roller timing set in the 2.5 in an above post.....the answer is (not theoretical, but factual...I have TWO 2.5 motors that have the double roller...

Definately not hatin' on innovation....but by cutting up a filter and using a small part of it, you don't have NEARLY enough surface area...one of three things will happen, it will suck dirt thru the piece of filter, or it will suck around the filter, or it will suck the filter out....if the...

Easy trick....Any new plug will show power gains over any old worn plug...and I will guarantee that anyone can make the dyno show whatever they want it to show with a tweak of the knob or a couple of keystrokes....I run STANDARD plugs in an engine with heavy nitrous loads and a GOOD digital...

My experiences with fuels with ethanol are that they do in the case of my Heeps yield lower fuel mileage numbers....all three Heeps, every time. My solution to the fuel cost issue is called Buell Blast! 70+ mpg :)

Bent pushrods usually indicate coil bind or rocker bind or way excessive spring pressure...or less likely galling/sticking valvestem/guides....I have had no problems with cam or lifter in the mighty 2.5 (same architecture) turning up to over 7K at times...I have worn out a few rocker stands...

I have a buddy that is working to become a full fledged engineer in Alaska I guess he is doing his apprenticeship or whatever it's called, been there 3 years I think. He works crazy hours too...and he loves his job too.

Thats right, I'm shameless and self centered....how could there be a better user name than MudDawg???? :roflmao:

If you just gotta change motor and trans/tc....consider a 4.3/700R4/NP231 from a S/10 or Blazer...no computer for the trans needed...but it is by no means a "bolt-in"...will give you about the same horsepower as a stock 4.0..the 4.0 swap can be done also...just find a 87-90 wreck that is...

The weak 4.88 - D30 puny gear debate continues....here's the deal....if you are determined, you can break ANYTHING. Yes the teeth are smaller, yes, blah blah blah....you have a decision to make...either put suitable gears in the 30 and run it or upgrade it to something $tronger...for MUDDING if...

The 2.02 valves are too big...i know it seems such a small difference, but the valve head is too close to the combustion chamber wall making the inherent shrouding even worse...Even Hesco uses the smaller valve in their head...you can polish the wall some to help with the shrouding, but stick...

I used Manley stainless valves in the head for the Heep...1.94/1.50 with 11/32 guides....you could have the guides replaced and use 5/16 stem valves.

Stump's oven cleaner idea is very good...I use it to clean motorcycle cases.

Kejtar, you rock!! I can't believe a SoCal guy is into it...there is mention of some mighty fine pickers in this thread...dont leave out Vince Gill and props to the oldtimers like Bill Monroe (God rest his soul)....and Flatt & Scruggs..my Mom sang with them a few times....and Travis Tritt can...

There's a sucker born every minute.

Earlier in the thread there was mention that wider lobe will distribute the load of the spring better....that is a fallicy....the ramp and nose of all flat tappet cams are ground with camber built in....and the lifter nose is ground convex.. The result is the lifter rides to one side of the...

Not a good idea...the silicone under the extreme pressure of the head bolts can cause the silicone to act as a lubricant and cause the gasket to squish out of shape in that area and fail.

I got mine from Summit....with the free shipping, it's a deal that can't be beat....and I got 'em fast....they dont screw around with the shipping. I'm very happy with mine...they are on my DD and they are true and round and balanced out real nice...and the finish is powdercoat, not paint.

Any tuneup kit will give you a performance improvement if the old stuff was worn out.

GroundHawgs are an old standard...they are pretty good general offroad tires and they last a long time...they are not the best in mud because they will pack up...dont know about rock crawling...but they are directional and if you run them on the road, it can get tricky come tire rotation time...