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if you want to do it correctly[OEM] you can wire a CSS to the clutch pedal or.....loop the NSS by just soldering the wires together, and while your at it the reverse lights are in the same harness with the NSS so you just need to splice the 2 wire plug in order to plug into the reverse switch...

when i had an AW4 the probe was mounted the front driver side corner of the pan, as there is nothing inside the pan at that location allowing for the probe to function without interfering with trans internals, kind of like shown by a previous poster just farther forward.

go to stickies in the how to section it lists the different years as far as pedals go im in the same boat just waiting for some final pieces. 84-94 was the first generation of pedal bracket i believe it changed 2 more times but its in that PDF how=to. as said likely to be different spline...

could easily fit 33x9.5R15 , i run 32x11.5R15 on rims with i believe 4" backspacing at 4.5" with no problem and plenty of room to fill, at full turn i contact the LCA ,at full flex the front has plenty of room but the rear contacts inner well mind you i dont have bump stops as they rotted off...

first there is no such thing as cheap or easy HP. second TB spacers are a waste of money and others have pointed out why now if you want an upgrade that will gain some power and wont cost too much do a header or a cam.....but keep in mind smog testing and BS like that may not allow doing so

yea i just picked mine up and its the same as yours, i had seen some others in pics where the line was molded into the unit but im just going to look for a line from a 94XJ as like i said 84-94 use the same pedal and master setup and 94 was the first year of the external slave so it should work...

im actually in the middle of the same swap 89 4.0L/AW4/NP242 and going to 94+ AX15 with an np231, and my slave should be in tomorrow so im not 100% sure but i dont think there is a threaded hole i think the plastic line is molded to the plastic slave housing but im in the same situation i have a...

do you still have that stupid vacuum line cluster block towards the front of the intake manifold, if so have you checked to see if thats clear or just by pass it, actually looks cleaner without that overpriced piece of plastic under the hood

its been a while since ive had the valve cover off but i could have sworn there were 2 little bolts on each baffle cover.....ive worked on many engines since so i could very likely be wrong as for clearance its bloody tight but i believe it frees up a little with the valve cover removed just...

Re: APN header won't fit when i was looking for a header for my renix all i could find for it was the pacesetter which wasnt perfect in the fitment department when it came to the crossover pipe as i had to weld in a flexible sections. my advice would be get a look at it and depending on the...

as WB9YZU said sounds like typical blowby problem i assume you fully removed the baffles and soaked or cleaned em up, ya said ya replaced the lines , cause that small straw sized tube clogs easily and if ya did replace that did you check the fitting that it connects to on the intake manifold...

just did my cargo area as the rear window seems to have been leaking for a while [its been parked for over a year] and the carpet was very wet and stinky so its goin in the trash, cant say anything bout road noise as my engine is apart and it wont be moving for a while given i dont see the...

nope theres a little spacer bout the same size as the o-rings

like others have said theres the break point, most people prefer a one piece axle and unless you run a cable actuator the 4wd has a tenancy to fail when you need it do to broken/melted vacuum lines

oh yea, im going to see if the local MOPAC has the comp cams additive but if not i may go with the royal purple, would have ordered it with the cam but stupid border wont let it through

the lifters are from COMP CAMS the SK68-232-4 kit includes cam,lifters, timing set(chain and gears) and whats ZDDP?

ok so my parts are finally in.....and so is the cold weather and snow but **** it. so im doing a cam and ive be reading lots bout the swap but just wanted to throw out some last minute questions that i was having some last minute questions about so here goes... head studs/bolts- ive always...

yea it sounds more beastly but it gets old quick and the amount of power and gas mileage ya lose isnt worth it, as for leaning out if you got the RENIX 4.0L ya should be fine as they ran just over 18lbs stock i believe and the fords are 19lbs

lmao ya gotta love when something like that happens coincidentally at the same time ya change something :doh: glad to hear ya got it figured, i know mine sounded much better even with the fact that my distributor was messed

i was very please with precision, ive yet to really run my jeep aside from idling as i put em in then tore the jeep apart again for cam swap but over all very nice paid $130CDN and the came vacuum packed and bubble wrapped and looking like new