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Set your caster at 4-5 deg and your pinion angle should be good. I measure caster at the upper ball joints. I measure pinion angle at the flat spots left and right of the diff cover and adjust by 90 deg. Then apply the difference of the drive shaft angle. I used this type of digital angle...

IMO Rusty's profits from their shipping costs.

Maybe you received the wrong arm. I have a stock TJ arm on a stock xj steering gear.

Welcome to naxj! I'm not trying to be an ass. But, I'm curious to know your definition of "overheated".

I agree, from personal experience!

Thanks for the nice words on my photography skills.:roflmao: I may have to paint the driveline now.:cry:

On the seatbelt-My passenger that day has only one leg, so I got out to take the pic. On the driveline length-I miss wrote-It should have been "SHORTEN the driveline", but I installed a shorter yoke at the t-case. Also with the shorter yoke, I had to clearance the crossmember for the driveline...

I would like to commend you for "THINKING OUTSIDE OF THE BOX". That said, there are several good posts with reasons why not to do this. I personally don't know. I did much to lower my trans temps. After all the work I found that the main contributer to my high trans temps was the Mobile 1 full...

This is how much drop I get with short arms. I acheived this with shock length, break line length, clearancing the AE LCA mount, and lengthened drive line. (I didn't actualy lengthen the drive line, I installed a shorter yoke at the t-case.)

Baldwin or Fleetguard

IMO&E I run a Robert Shaw t-stat and the only one I found that works properly is from www.stewartcomponents.com. (not made in China) I have a Hesco high flow water pump and found that the increased flow causes increased resistance on the impeller. the only way I could keep the belt from slipping...

With alloy shafts in a D30-what is the weak link? The R&P? If so, wouldn't it be better to replace a shaft than a R&P. Thoughts or experiences?

Do you have a D30 LP? If so, drop the front with a .75" spring pad and heat n hammer a notch in the cross member for drive shaft clearance. I have a D30 LP w/ 6.5" springs, a .75" spring pad, cross member notched for drive shaft clearance and have no clearance issues. I tried a set of 1.75"...

This happened to a no-slip I installed. It turned out being a syncro problem not installation. Got warranty from Richmond.

Main lock-right and no-slip instruction download page http://www.richmondgear.com/installmanuals.html #92-0382-2705 no-slip instructions http://www.richmondgear.com/0002pdfs/8221002.pdf