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Duh, thank you. PO left the fan in the back cargo area. I removed the radiator, and the coolant temp switch connector; that's my gray duct tape labelled "coolant temp radiator".

http://www.nc4x4.com/forum/index.php?threads/1987-cherokee-engine-harness.158931/ Sorry for the cross posting, but I can't figure out how to get the pic off my phone to this forum, even thru photobucket. Any help figuring out what this connector is for would be appreciated.

yep

considered the Renix head, may even try that if the HO is too much of a hassle. This is a budget race motor (I know contradiction in terms) so the port mismatching between Renix intake and HO head doesnt sit too well. For the exhaust, we dont need EGR, and we are using the HO downpipe, already...

thx cruiser, will pull the CTS plug and grab my renix flexplate from the discard pile Plan is to use the complete HO intake/fuel rail/TB with Renix TPS adapted to the HO TB. HO header plus HO gasket HO fuel lines back to the 1990 fuel tank/pump Renix distributor HO block already has the...

is there any difference between AW4 flexplates, looking at doing what Dr. Dyno suggest, with a 95 HO into my 90. before anyone else says it...holy old thread batman ;)

flexplate needs to change? Search dug this old thread up...I'll be dropping a 95HO engine/AW4/231 in my 90 XJ this w/e, the plan was to use the Renix CPS and electronics. I guess the Renix CPS won't read an HO flexplate?

I'll be"OK" not chamfering the HO head to match the Renix intake....but won't that step between the Renix intake to HO raised ports kill any flow, i.e. the whole point in using the HO head instead of the Renix head? Why use the Renix gasket? After laying both the old gaskets on the renix...

After blowing the head gasket and developing a nasty knock with other bad noises in my 90 XJ Renix 4.0L, we pulled the motor in favor of a 95 4.0L HO. The plan was to use the longblock with the Renix intake/exhaust manifolds and distributor, to eliminate any electronics swapovers. We've found...

how 'bout you measure the center hole?

x2

Re: Door interchaneabilty I did some research on this, pics/measurements here... http://www.nc4x4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113760

haha, "get a custom length made". Most of the lengths are at the parts store. You get a string and wrao it around your new belt drive system, measure the length of string, thats close to the belt length. Measure/convert to mm, most belt p/n's are actually the length in mm's, ie 975K6 is 975mm...

this procedure is likely to create a hole in addition to the dent...not good

^^^truth. interchangeable, but not identical, as noted throughout this thread the biggest difference between a XJ D30 (up to mid2000) is the high pinion/reverse cut compared to the ZJ (&TJ) low pinion

Brown Dog is the beef!

thats it, pop the cover off, unscrew til it stops backing out (it will still spin, just won't move out). To re-engage, screw it back in til its "all the way in", put the cover back on.

would it be possible to weld a nut on the remaining bolt shank? the weld heat often breaks the corrosion that is causing it to be stuck.

spray some PBlaster on it first. put a punch on the bolt tip, then tap it out.

let me backpedal a bit, I'm not sure why I said "most" XJs, somehow I had it in my head '91 was close to the end of the run; in fact its in the middle nearer the beginning. Anyways, I'm sure my 91 had D35-spaced holes, becasue I was not looking forward to trying to grind them to fit the 8.25...