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I'll take a stab at this. My XJ doesn't have that feature, but my Toyota RAV4 does have it. I get those exact same symptoms when the battery is getting low. We get about one year from the battery. Let us know how it goes.

Is that where you dive the grease down into the hole with a close-fitting rod to force the bearing out? Thanks to everyone for your replies.

After you got out the needles, were you able to pull it out with your hand? No puller?

I'm rebuilding my 231. There is a bearing that is pressed into a hole that can only be reached from the top of the hole. Here is a pic of what I'm talking about: It's not perfectly focused, but it's not accessible from the back side. The view you see in the pic is the only point of...

I replaced the bushings on my wiper linkage about 11 years ago, and it tightened up the arm travel quite a bit. I think I used the Dorman HELP blister packs from a big-box auto parts store. Don't remember the part number. It took maybe an hour or two, with very noticeable results.

That's great! That's a dying industry. You're lucky to still have one near you. They can hook you up with everything you need. With the battery fully charged, do the other problems you described go away?

Sounds like the battery is taking a charge ok. Easiest way to test the alternator is to measure the voltage at the battery clamps while the engine is running and the battery cables are properly connected ... voltage should be over 14. That would show that the alternator is at least working...

The voltage regulator for the alternator is in the main computer. If the computer is shot, it could be allowing the battery to run down, and perhaps also contribute to the other problems?

Thanks. I was thinking of running Castrol Dex-III for a few hundred miles of break-in, then switching to the better stuff. The Redline D4 looks really good. I run their MT-90 in my AX15. Any other ideas?

'91 xj with NP231. What's a high-quality ATF fluid for this? The '91 FSM says Dexron II or Mercon ATF, but that's obviously dated. I run Mobile 1 Extended Performance synthetic oil in the motor ... is there a similar-quality fluid for the TC? I'm rebuilding mine, and would like to run some...

I need to replace my '91 mirrors, so I'll be watching this also. So you're recommending Mopar 97+ replacements?

Thanks.

Not sure which chapter is western Montana ... Intermountain? or NW? Thanks.

Ok ... It's been raining, but I got out today, and took things apart. The Carrier bearing race is badly pitted on the ring side, so I'm going to do the full rebuild, but will keep the old gears, since they don't show any obvious signs of wear or damage. Any brand recommendations for a...

Thanks again for all of your help. I can feel the tiniest bit of play when I wiggle the yoke. It feels like end play, but it's hard to tell with such a small amount. There are no unusual sounds. Perhaps I should remove the pinion shaft, take out .001 or so, and call it good? Or maybe put it...

Thank you for the link. There is snow on the ground, so I was hoping someone would know off the top of their head, so I spend less time crawling around in the snow. Turns out ... it's the same number as on the tag. Much appreciated.

Thank you for your help. The website I linked to above sells original Dana/Spicer parts at good prices. They need the BOM number. Anybody else know where it is?

I meant to say "I am looking for ... " in the post above. Here's the website that needs the number: http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_catalog/ring_and_pinions/dana_30_front_axle_ring_and_pinion_sets.html You'll see in the 3rd paragraph down, they are saying they need to "Date" stamp and "Bill...

Look for the "Date" and "Bill of Materials" stamps for the D30. I've cleaned it and wiped the long axle tube, but can't find it. The ratio tag has nothing that resembles a date on it. When you order parts, the Bill of Materials number is important. Anyone know where to find it?

well ... the diff has 260K miles on it. The shop guy I talked to said that when they wear in a certain pattern, it can be very difficult to get them set up with new bearings, because the new bearings cause a new backlash and pinion depth, which results in an odd wear pattern. Unless you throw...