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Pop off the shifter linkafe, put a jack under the transmission mount, unbolt the cross member from the frame rails, and lower it a few inches for increased clearance. Use a stubby wrench and/or a super long extension with a ratchet and socket. TC to transfer case nuts are 9/16" IIRC. Sent...

I had a 93 XJ with an ax15 that I had Detroit Lockers in the front and rear, D30 front, C8.25 rear. I didn't notice it on the street with the front locker, but once the rear was installed it was definitely noticeable. I had to be careful on the highway around turns at speed, I had to maintain...

Did you have a problem with wind noise after swapping on the 97+ doors? I swapped two 97+ doors onto my 88 MJ, but I have a ton of wind noise at highway speeds now. I have brand new weatherstripping on both door openings, although I think they are spec'd for an 88, not sure if the weatherstrip...

I did this swap a few years ago. IIRC you'll need: a bronze pilot bushing from Advanced Adapters (their site specs it for a 4.0 to NV4500 I think) a clutch disc from an '86 4-cyl 4 speed camaro (NAPA part # RCF4198 9 1/8" OD with 1 1/8x10 spline) and I don't remember the rest. I used this...

Does anybody in Junction City, Fort Riley, or Manhattan Kansas have a pair of stock XJ leaf spring packs they'll give away or sell cheap? I haven't found a good junkyard here yet.

Not following what you mean by the ring gear shimmed out. The pinion depth is really the only thing I'm checking here, then backlash will be set to the .011-.015 spec. If you mean shimming the pinion so it sits closer to the ring gear, that's kind of my thought.

Hey guys, This is the 4th or 5th gear setup I've done, but it's been a couple years. Can you guys take a look and tell me how the pattern looks? It's a used 4.10 gearset, so what I've read is that the coast pattern is more important than the drive-side pattern on used gears. It looks alright...

Check your throttle body. Air is leaking past it causing the high rev. Did you put a different throttle body on? Check where it seals to the intake manifold and make sure there are no obstructions. An uncontrolled amount of air is getting past the throttle body. The XJ's computer adjusts...

Last month I picked up a 231C from an S-10 Blazer, 94 I think. It had a 4-gear planetary (2 empty slots instead of the customary 3 in our 231J's) and a 1.25" chain, so my TC now has those. Cost was $100 after returning the core. Just FYI for those searching old threads.

Re: Renix to H.O. swap worth the hassel? I did this on my 4-cylinder and it was a pain because I got everything piece by piece from the junkyards. You'd be much better off to get a whole donor vehicle if you can get it for a good price so that each time you think of one more thing you forgot...

Any of you guys that have modded these engines ever dyno'd them? I don't know if I will or not, but I was just curious. I went ahead and orderd the mopar springs, retainers, and keepers. I also talked with my machine shop and they're going to deck the block for me to get a .040" quench height...

After discussing everything with the machine shop that has previously rebuilt two heads for me, I think I am going to get the springs Mopar recommends for my cam. Gradon or anybody else that has run the P5249464 springs, are the retainers and locks necessary as well or can I keep those stock...

Old Man, did you get any valve float between 4000 and 5000 rpm using the stock springs? I've read elsewhere of that issue and I like to be able to take it all the way to 5000 rpms when necessary.

Any adjustments necessary to the valve spring height or just run it as-is? I had the head rebuilt and ported a year ago so it's pretty fresh already.

I realize this is an old post, but it seems more appropriate than starting another one on the exact same topic. My question relates to a 2.5, but everything should apply from the 4.0 knowledge some of you guys have. I'm looking at a Mopar Stage 3 cam for the 2.5 (PN P4529658, Lift .450...

I cut an access hole like this to remove the old nut, then welded a new nut to a square steel plate, slid it up in there and welded it in place, then closed up the access hold by welding a plate back over it and grinding it all smooth. Didn't have any further problems for the next six years...

I did it on a 2wd Comanche. Just make sure all the parts either come off of the same vehicle, or that you're matching years, tranny, etc (driveshaft lengths vary with manual vs auto tranny, etc.) It would be easier if you could get all the parts off of one vehicle.

I've never had a catastrophic failure with straps, but the last time I was under the Jeep I noticed I needed to replace a u-joint, and the u-joint u-bolt kit was only $4 more with shipping than the u-joint alone so I'm switching to u-bolts on the front.

Just adjust it to the 4th hole for crawling or unbolt that link on one side.

All my spring center-pin bolts are currently just grade 8's that I rounded the head off of. I just chucked the bolt in the drill and took the 4.5" grinder to it until it was exactly the right size to fit in the spring perch with no slop. Haven't had any problems with them.