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Hi. I used some from: https://www.stripeman.com/woodgrain-kits/ They have a sample kit you can get to match which is best.

I had a difficult time seen the flexplate crack. Take another look with a powerful flashlight. Look closely at the area by the bolts that go to the crankshaft. Keep us posted.

Hi, Double check the flexplate. Those cracks are hard to see with it all bolted up. One way I was able to make the noise change was to accelerate with the transmission in D and then switch to N or R and I noticed noticeable difference in the noise. It ended been the flexplate.

It can be done. Not that hard but you have to remove the box for this one. I recommend you clean the area first and double check its leaking form the inner seal. The reason is it can also leak form the outer threaded area if an internal o-ring is bad. That can also be repaired but you have to...

Sorry to hear you are still having overheating issues. Seems pretty serious. Maybe try borrow/rent a leak down tester? What about a blockage? I guess you've checked but maybe defective thermostat or water pump? Have you started up without the radiator cap on and watch the water...

I have successfully change the lower (pitman arm) seals easily on 2 different vehicles, solving leak in both cases. Yes you can turn it on and turn wheel to lock (after removing snap ring) and it will come out.

All depends on how much your RMS is leaking it might be a good moment to have it done. If they have to replace the flexplate it makes it much easier to work on the seal.

Did you use DII fluid. For example ATF +3 is not the correct fluid and can cause problems.

I see them listed in the Quadratec webpage. I've had them for several years and am very happy with them. Best all around shock I've had for highway, bad roads and some off road.

All WP I've seen go bad get a small leak from weep hole. Try using a flashlight to see directly under the pulley. Doubt its the hoses unless they are installed wrong or clamp is loose. For hot weather slow crawling I would recommend a high volume water pump but do check the other posts.

Not normal for it to be overheating at highway speeds. My XJ only starts to get hot on uphill climbs but that's fairly normal as it cools back down rapidly. That's a lot of coolant loss. Unless you have a easier leak you haven't found such as a hose, defective water pump (underside from weep...

Does it run hot on highway too? How much coolant do you add after x amount of miles? Maybe time for at least a compression test or leak down test.

Hi, Some more basic things I can think of first would be: Did you change your fan clutch? Is your electric fan working? Did you test or change your radiator cap? Does it run hot at highway speeds too? Patrick

The older XJ had the dana 44 option. For example 89 XJ's.

You can run a 60/40 no problem and benefit from better heat transfer over 50/50. If you only see hot weather you can change the glycol for some other Coolant/Rust inhibitor. I run distilled water with water wetter in the XJ. Not the same green coolant; but this is from a 2009 Ford Escape user...

Well I tested clamping the heater hose off and at least in the case of my 93 XJ it had no effect. I have a high flow water pump, stock thermostat and I used a dremel on my thermostat housing to slightly increase the flow. I don't overheat but these XJ do run hot. I never run past the middle of...

Hi, 1. My 93 XJ has a heater valve that I believe does not let the water to go thru the heater unless you turn the heat on (moves a flap with vacuum hose). Don't the later XJ's have that? 2. Do you have more info on what model pusher fan you used or a picture of the install? Did it improve...

The play is usually in the tie rod itself and not the bracket. My bracket had some cracks and I had it welded and reinforced. A new bracket was very expensive. Unless the round hole has worn oval you shouldn't need to replace.

I used Rusty's RC-TB111-UV. It seem strong and larger than stock. It's good for stock up to 2 inch lift. You can change the tie rod end if it goes bad.

For sure check the lower ball joints. Raise the car on stands till the front tires are just off the ground. Using a pry bar try and move them up looking for any play. Also check the track bar at the frame end. Do this with tires on ground while having someone move the wheel side to side.