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Recent content by Vkbikes

  1. V

    Vibration between 30 and 40mph?

    Rebuilt the rear driveshaft with Dana SPL 14 310 Joints. It definitely lessened the vibration portion. There's still a heavy vibration right at 20mph but it immediately goes away once you're above or below. The roar is still audible at higher speeds however it is also lessened. The only thing...
  2. V

    Vibration between 30 and 40mph?

    Checked my tire pressures today, set them all to 30psi and went for a drive. The growl sets in hard at 20mph, I can feel it in the accelerator pedal, but not really the steering wheel. It then goes away 25 to 30, then comes back 30 to 40 as more of a low audible growl.
  3. V

    Vibration between 30 and 40mph?

    88, I may just rebuild it anyways.
  4. V

    Vibration between 30 and 40mph?

    As far as I know they do, they were dynamicly balanced without much drama. I would think if it was the tread it would be road surface dependent though? I will rebuild the front drive shaft then I will try driving without the rear.
  5. V

    Vibration between 30 and 40mph?

    Les Schwab Back Country AT https://www.lesschwab.com/back-country-all-terrain-5955478.html They all mounted and balanced with little to no problem.
  6. V

    Vibration between 30 and 40mph?

    So I have a vibration that i've been chasing but i'm a little st a loss. Seemed to happen after I got new wheels and tires. Starts at about 30, goes away at about 40. Can feel it in the brakes as I slow through that speed range. Not in the steering, it's an audible low growl, almost...
  7. V

    Negative Camber after swapping ball joints?

    235/75R15 Initial Final Caster L. 7.64 7.69 R. 7.47 7.52 Camber L. -1.67 -1.17 R. -1.73 -1.21 Toe L. 3.57 0.04 R. 3.35 0.03
  8. V

    Negative Camber after swapping ball joints?

    They used lasers and everything. :geek: They gave me a printout haha. I just didn't memorize the exact number. One side was like -1.2 and the other was -1.1. I
  9. V

    Negative Camber after swapping ball joints?

    Cant say I have any experience with them. My guess is that they're just a bandaid fix. I'd be more likely to use a adjustable ball joint before those.
  10. V

    Negative Camber after swapping ball joints?

    The shop could not change the Camber obviously, but they measured it as part of the toe adjustment. It was -1 and some change each side. Googling turns up some threads claiming this is close to factory and perhaps even desirable?
  11. V

    Negative Camber after swapping ball joints?

    After the alignment in sitting at about -1 on each side.
  12. V

    Negative Camber after swapping ball joints?

    Camber shim goes behind the unit bearing, theres also shimmer sleeves that seem to fit in the knuckle. I am definitely going to have it aligned, I'm just wondering if it's a problem or if it's normal and my old worn out joints were just masking it.
  13. V

    Negative Camber after swapping ball joints?

    So I finished up my WJ knuckle swap, and I noticed there seems to be a pretty pronounced negative camber in my wheels now. It looks a little like / \ now. My old ball joints were completely shot. There's little to no chance the axle is bent, do they just need to settle or am i SOL and need...
  14. V

    Wj Knuckle/brakes swap, brake line question.

    No lift. I was able to reuse the stock lines by bending them a bit. When I get my lift i will install extended lines.
  15. V

    Wj Knuckle/brakes swap, brake line question.

    I was thinking about stainless but all the ones I see online are for a 4in lift, will that be too much extra line?
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