Recent content by sigmund

If all you truly want to do is change your u-joints, there's no need to drain your differential and after you pull off your brakes just remove the three bolts that hold the hub assembly in place and remove your axles.

All I can say is NICE!!! I like how you replaces the threaded collars with the set screws. The video was a nice touch. Thanks

If the seals are the same as on a '95, setting the seals is easy. Once the axles and carrier have been removed, all I did was use a 6' piece of 3/4" pipe I had and a socket to set the seals. The pipe is small enough to fit in the opening of the seal so it can be used to reach through from the...

Why are you doing this?

Wouldn't the bearing wear be much more of a gradual loss of oil pressure? I'm talking two weeks, not two years.

I've been losing oil pressure for the last few weeks, almost 25psi over that period. I guess it's time to change the oil pump. Does the oil pan have to come out completely to remove the pump, or will it drop enough to allow me to remove it? It's a '95. How long an operation is it going to be?

I also used Fitch's writeup as a guide when doing my harness. Very well written and illustrated. Between the Autopals and the wiring harness, I can't believe the difference in lighting. I still find myself with my low beams on thinking I have my old high beams on.

Two separate filaments means two separate wiring loops, so no additional draw on either loop, but some additional draw on your alternator. As for the heat, it would not be exponential by any means. You would have the heat from a 65 watt filament and then the addition of the 55 watt (which...

Although you can get probably get by without the wiring harness upgrade, I did mine and there was a difference. That tells me that the stock harness is not adequate to do the job properly. Change out your harness, you'll be happy you did.

The fronts are different also. I have a manual and an auto drive shaft and the lengths are not the same.

For just the conversion, you need a new tranny, transfer case, new drive shafts, and a shifter for your transfer case, and a new front axle. It should take you about one full day with a little help to make the conversion, it's pretty straight forward. Make sure whatever transfer case you get...

For the money and time, it makes sense to spend the $11.00 at the dealer to get a new resistor. I would also lean towards replacing your blower motor as it will probably take out your resistor again shortly. A couple resistor changes will eat up the cost of a new blower motor.

I just installed a set of Autopal ecodes and am very pleased with them. My sealed beams were terrible. I can't speak for the others, but I would spend the money again in a heartbeat for these lights. Best money I've spent on the beast.

If you are welding, the overlap joint is the way to go, as already stated. It gives you more surface area to weld to, thus giving you a stronger weld. Since you're not 100% onthe welding, go with the heim, safety first.

I've used a hole saw to drill out the rubber around the bushing before. Nasty smell but not too difficult.