Recent content by QKRTHNU

For reference, after bolting up the main bell-housing bolts tight I was still able to spin the torque converter easily with my finger reaching into the starter opening in order to get it lined up with the flexplate bolts. I would think if it wasn't lined up it would have been jammed in there.

well f***, I wish that procedure would have been in the Haynes manual. Any idea what happens if it wasn't seated? I really don't want to pull it apart again.

Success! This wasn't nearly as bad as I thought. For some reason I was expecting the wire inside the seal to be much smaller. When I was first looking at the bearing cap I thought the wire was part of the bearing cap to hold the seal in place. Pounded on it with a piece of the brass brazing...

Hmm weird, mine doesn't look broken, the black piece was clearly a separate slightly tapered and flared slip on piece that looks to serve as the seal (i.e. in place of o-rings) on both connections. Nothing was left in the transmission, just an empty female QD fitting. I guess maybe what I have...

No luck when I brought it in with me to Autozone. Do you know if it's part of the line or part of the fitting? Might just cut them and rig up something else like suggested but if I can replace it for a few $ I'd rather do that.

??? Pretty sure I pulled the line out correctly. I squeezed the plastic tabs, pushed in a bit and then it pulled right out.

I lost one of the little seals that slip onto the end of the transmission cooler line after pulling out the line from the quick-disconnect fitting. Is this a part that can be purchased by itself or do I need to buy an entire new line?

Good call that is definitely cheaper. $16 for a pound of rods is about the same as buying a single punch. I'll pick up some of those if I end up destroying the punch. https://www.mcmaster.com/7972A113/

Thanks for the advice, Brass pin set on the way. I thought rotating the crank occasionally was usually recommended while trying to pound out the top seal, and to get the new one in as well.

POS 95' XJ Sport 4.0 - Driveway mechanic. I'm doing a bunch of repairs this weekend (Flexplate, Valve Cover gasket, Oil-pan Gasket, Rear Main Seal). Everything is apart but I've run into some concerning problems with the RMS. The bottom half of the RMS is baked into the bearing cap and I can't...

FIXED! I fixed this several months back but forgot to come back and update this thread; hopefully I can save some other Jeeper a lot of headaches. It was the Crankshaft Position Sensor... :-/ Pro-tip: I had tested the CPS using the factory specified test procedure and it checked OK, but it...

Current working theory: Bad ECU, near/below freezing temperatures something is contracting and losing contact, or moisture is freezing and pushing something apart. It was just above freezing this morning when I was testing this, so I'm not 100% convinced I've found the issue yet, tomorrow...

Tried to get a video of what it sounds like during a difficult start, looks like I'll have to wait until later tonight (after sundown) or tomorrow morning....it fired right up.

Thanks, laughing is better screaming and cussing. I went out to verify spark, but of course now that it's been sitting in the sun for a few hours it started after 10-15 seconds of cranking. It sounds like there's a loose connection somewhere, either in the ECU, or the coil or a ground...

Well, I'm the mechanic(ish), so I'm afraid that's not an option. ;-)