Recent content by Petemech

Can find plenty of stuff on how to disable the buzzer on 96 and down but nothing for 98 and up. And i dont want to dis able the door switches, just want the buzzer gone.

Any one know what brand the door lock switch terminals/pins are. The PO did something terrible to mine involving solder and scotch locks and as a result my door locks work intermitantly. Want to fix it properly by just replacing the pins in the connector. Thanks in advance.

Lol yeah i know right. I guess i was so excited that the floor pans were rock soild i forgot about the rest of the jeep. Oh well i still got a smokin deal on it. After watching "bleepin jeeps" youtube video on how to cut and fold the rear quarters i guess thats probably the cheapest and...

Removing and stopping the rust is part of the goal. But this hole is big and I'm getting dust and water in the cab. I found that Key parts makes a panel for this area. Quadratec has it for $50 but I'm not sure if it will cover the whole area, or how to go about installing it or preparing the...

So i thought my 98 XJ was fairly rot free untill i got her home and realized i over looked some things. The lower part of bother quater panels are rotting. The drivers side i can probably fix my self fairly easily, just a smal hole the size of a tennis ball. The passengers side how ever not...

Drum roll please. And the winner is Tim! Lol my gauges dropped out again to day and while i had it all apart i hit the button on the shifter and it clicked bingo! I shimmed the gauge connectors with some cardboard hopefully that will keep them inline.

98 4.0 aw4 still stock

So my guages decided to stop working yesterday and in the process of fixing that issue i stumbled across a wierd solenoid on the steering column. It appears to be cylindrical and has what looks to be a two wire connector going to it and vacuum line coming and going from both ends. One of the...

Plugs i took out looked good. Id say they looked like second row down second colum from the right. The ones i put in were champion copers gapped to .035 i believe. I'm almost positive this isnt a base engine issue. It has to be a manegment issue.

So i start up this morning, not only did it take a few extra turns to start but bow it feels more like a dead mis. I'll go through and verify the plug, wire, cap and rotor are ok and check to see if the cap has contact marks. Thing is making me crazy.

Just read through your posts Ecomike. Good stuff there. I'm gonna tear back into her this week. I'm really feeling like that bad bearing in the distributor could be a winner. Could explain why it seems to go away at higher rpm.

Vehicle specs: 1998 Cherokee (base model I believe), 4.0l automagic, np232 transfer case. This is what I've done or I've confirmed has been done by PO so far. Ford 4 hole injectors with new o-rings Plugs, cap, rotor, wires. Oil change New ground strap from cylinder head to firewall Cleaned...

So few days have gone by. I've swapped #1 and #2 injector and replaced all 12 injector o-rings. Confirmed they are ford 4 hole injectors and fairly new. Checked the wiring from pcm to injector #1 for high resistance, short to ground and pin-to-pin shorts. Checked wiring to crank position...

Really leaning away from injectors on this one. It seems more electrical. I know the ground strap from the head to the firewall is in sad shape (not that they are good from the factory). Im planning on redoing all the powers and grounds with 1/0 welding wire and marine/millitary style lugs...

Ok got an update. So i drove it to work this am and CEL was on. Drove home and decided to get gas. Filled it up and started it, CEL went out. Got home and plugged my scanner in to confirm it was the P0301 that cause the CEL. It did have the P0301 but also had P0320 for ignition/distributor...