Recent content by PapasXJ

Didn't mention, mine acted up with 35s/4:88 AND the correct speed-o gear. Fluid level fixed it.

When mine did that it was due to low fluid level. Added to proper level and shifts as it should now. Very smooth.

Same problem here, cavitating above 2500rpm. I used the standard smaller port. You're saying to use the larger port and plug the small one? Any advantage to using both ports if an adapter can be made?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3905/ Trial and error on a dirt road with a heavy foot.

Actually no. I have a ford 8.8 rear and ford D44 front. The push rod on mine wasn't adjustable.

The guide I used read as to suggest the spacer was optional. Being in the high 90's the day I went to Pick N Pull I really didn't want to hunt one down so I opted to go without. Well, the spacer is not optional. I made mine out of .210" plexiglass. As for performance: They are great. Driving...

That was going to be my next check. But, placing a 1/4" spacer between the firewall and booster appears to have fixed the problem. It resulted in a bit more free peddle and the top of the stroke and they work fine now. I was also able to adjust the p-valve to get the rear discs to lock up...

Since I was on the side of the road I only lifted the R pass front. So I only verified that the front was locked. As for the adjustable P-valve, I added one in line with the rear. I also removed the rubber disc from the factory valve until I can remove the entire OEM valve. I didn't have to...

I installed the booster and master cylinder from a 2000 WJ into my 1992 XJ. During the test drive, I braked easy twice. After the third stop the brakes wouldn't release. I loosened up the two bolts holding the master cylinder and pulled it back to release the built up vacuum. The brakes release...

You're limited more by which parking garages can take lifted rigs. Most are under 7'. IIRC Circus Circus has one of the taller ones. The Sands has an open lot and only about a block or two from CC. Not sure about security though. Hopefully I can make a run but Friday is my grandson's 1st...

I'm running 7/8"-3/4" with a 3/4" grade 8 bolt on the tie rods since they don't require misalignment bushing. On the drag link, I've used 7/8"-7/8" on each end with a 3/4" misalignment bushing and grade 8 bolt on the high steer arm and a 5/8" misalignment bushing to fit the GenRight pitman arm...

Or you could follow this writeup and save some money: http://www.ericsxj.com/intake/intake.htm I did mine for less than Eric's cost list.