Recent content by Nevada City Sparky

I replaced at least 2 CPS's thinking that's where the problem was I read the Cruiser 54 "fix" and after getting a reading from the output, decided that wasn't it (was in spec). There is really no pattern to when it shuts doen, except its always after it has warmed up and driven for a while. It...

This is kinda where I'm headed now. I do have a few suspect wiring issues I can look at, particularly a slice on the wire to the coil controller. The bitch is, you think you have it fixed, only to find yourself on the side of the road, screwdriver in hand. I went through all the looms about 8...

<<Well THIS TIME it ain't the mud :). This is a problem that started over a year ago and has gotten progressively worse. Haven't done that yet. I'll give that a try. I'll root around, but the wiring is pretty clean. Only thing not verified here is the ignition switch. I'd replaced it about 8...

Fair enough, and I've been away all week without my Intardnet, so here goes: Question#1: Did you ever find your Field Service Manual? Yes or NO <<<YES!>>> Question #2: When you turn the key to the Start Position will the Starter engage and the engine crank? Yes or NO <<<YES!>>> OK now I’m...

Spark! I may have a manifold leak from loose bolts, but that shouldn't kill the motor when I'm driving. Its as if the key was just shut off.

The relay up top is where I jumped the post to the green wire. I'm grounding the center wire of the distributor to the AC compressor case. I don't see how the ballast resistor would affect this.

As did I. I used a unit from a 4 cylinder XJ, I think it was an '86, but its been a really long time.

OK, pulling my hair out here. Here's what's new: Coil, Coil Controller Module, Coolant Temp Sensor, New CPS (I tried 2) Cleaned Grounds. Here's what happens: Car will start fine and drive fine, but then just stall out. Not a fuel problem, and I can get it to restart by grounding the coil wire...

^^i better start there. It's been a while since I noodled around back there. <sigh> I guess the honeymoon phase of the complete rebuild I did 60K miles ago is now officially over. Back to tracking sh!t down again..... :(

No, I set to DC volts. Guess I better try again.

Ok I tested the new MOPAR CPS and got no voltage or just a tickle when I cranked. That's weird. There was grease on the other new napa CPS I put in, so maybe I need to bump the flex plate around and see if there's crap somewhere on it. Obviously, I'll be pulling out the CPS again.

The biggest thing is getting it on the clip on the bell housing. You can reach it from below and feel it, a partner up top with a flashlight can help guide you. It's a u-shaped clip with the open end facing the front of the vehicle. You can just push it on, once you find it.

Battery and starter are known good. The NAPA CPS I replaced with the MOPAR version was only putting out .1v. Didn't check the MOPAR one yet. I'll do that this morning after the wife's chores are done. Not sure how drilling out the CPS holes one size bigger helps. Do you push down towards the...

Thanks. Yes, it will crank, but no spark. I'll check the harnesses first, then check out you mod to get the CPS closer. Any possibility it's the ignition switch? Did I mention I HATE replacing the CPS. :).

So, you don't see the NSS as being a likely culprit? If the NSS is fubar, does it prevent cranking?