Recent content by N8N_99xj

I had Cibies and a relay harness on my last XJ, this time around I went with Truck-Lite LEDs. A little more cost up front, but I haven't touched them since install, which took about an hour, no wiring, soldering, etc. the LEDs don't require a relay harness because they draw less current than...

I don't know about XJs in particular but many American cars had the doors covered with foam, which disintegrates and blows out of the vents over time causing what you describe. Does it appear that there's glue residue on it, since you apparently have taken it apart enough to see it?

heh, my XJ has Icons on it as well, *and* the 242 TC. If it weren't such a roach I'd keep it for as long as I possibly could, because it's the greatest bad weather beater and it's also great for driving in DC and Baltimore where the roads are practically off-roading... I think the upcountry...

My 2000 had the original shocks when I bought it at 250K miles. They were OK ish but one was completely blown probably because the wheel on that corner was badly bent as well, and apparently the PO just drove it like that. I replaced them with Monroe police spec shocks (I have upcountry, like...

Subject says all, I purchased a good used steering wheel maybe 10 years ago, it's now on its 2nd jeep and after maybe 100K miles of my use and indifferent cleaning the leather is now falling apart like so many others. So, I'm looking for one of two things: 1) another nice driver quality...

Just a reminder, if you do a SYE with a double cardan shaft like the front driveshaft, you will probably need to use pinion angle shims on the rear to get the angles right, because for the same position of the TC and rear axle the correct pinion angle is different between a conventional...

Since you mention vapor lock, a thought - my 2000 has vapor locked badly since I got it, but not when driving, it does it when you make a quick stop like getting gas or running into a convenience store and you don't pop the hood. Then when looking into coolant loss I pressure tested the cap and...

Heh, I can do better, I just cut out the rear plate to fish out the mangled remains of the nut strip; fine so far (fingers crossed) surface rust only and I'll obviously coat it before I put new strips in

I'll find out here in hopefully an hour or so if I have the same issue. Right now, I am waiting for the compressor to pump up because I need to grind off the front most bolt on the pass side nut strip which is the last thing keeping me from dropping the skid plate.

I bought an "OEM" switch off of eBay because even the Dorman one was eye wateringly expensive. It's working so far, and honestly I'll be surprised if I still have this vehicle in 5 years (although I might turn it into a parts donor in which case I may end up using the transfer case out of it...)

I'm a little frustrated and sick right now. I've put a lot of time and money into the Heep over the past month and a half or so in an attempt to get it driving right and install a trailer hitch. Right now I'm taking a break from grinding off the last two bolts holding the skidplate on, but...

FYI both my old and new switches are labeled "Lucas" so any used one is suspect LOL

OK, I used the smallest metric O-ring that would just fit over the threads with a tiny stretch. Indicator now works perfectly, although I was reminded how much fun it is to finagle a TC into low range with an automatic transmission (really would have parked on a slope to try this had I planned...

I have some o-rings, just use the smallest one that fits I guess? It really doesn't look like this was designed for an o-ring though. Part of me is tempted to cut a gasket from either a cereal box or a chinese takout container lid.

Can someone tell me what it looks like? I just replaced the electrical switch on my NP242 as the old one was dead; ever since I've had the jeep it would hang and illuminate "part time" for several days after you returned it to 2WD now it will not light anything at all. When I pulled the old...