Recent content by jerms234

It can be done, you may need to engineer a tool that fits into the oil channel in the crank to help remove the upper main bearing halves. Be sure to use lube on the new rms, it will tear otherwise. However I don't believe this is worth the effort. Let me explain. If the knock is indeed a...

At the time of the failure did you check the fluid again? Did you lose power all at once or did the trans start to slip and then completely lost forward gear? Need more info to help specifically. I'm not AW4 expert, but do know they are pretty tough. Can't comment on the atf+4 mentioned...

So to understand these tests a little more requires some chemistry. High NOX usually only happens if there is unburnt oxygen left in the exhaust stream. You have a few ways this happens. 1. miss fire, however this will also cause a fail on hydrocarbons if it is ignition based, which you...

Ya the 80-90w oil in the diff is about the consistency of honey. And the right tube is long. So it takes a while for it to work it's way down to where it can drip out, and when it does, it drips for a while and enough to be concerning. I second check the front diff level, the hp d30 is very...

I second this, verify with a mechanical gauge, my 99, my brothers 98, and friends 99 have all had bad sending units. If you verify that the oil pressure is indeed low, and with a mechanical guage, i'd say low at idle is less than 15 PSI. (Perhaps someone can chime in on the FSMs recommended...

Was the fluid level correct or was it low? Frequently on the high pinion model D30's if they develop an axle seal leak, the fluid level will drain down low enough to allow the pinion bearings to basically run dry. Also the unit bearings on the front are a common source of grinding/roaring...

You've also got D30 pinion and diff bearings that could be making noise. That noise gets harder to hear if you remove the front driveshaft. In my area, I can have the drive shaft rebuilt by a shop for about 80$. They'll replace the centering ball and joints and grease everything up good. I'd...

Thanks for the detailed reply that helps a lot and exactly describes my conditions. I think I've heard of people installing a check valve in the rubber line from the tank to the frame? Any body have suggestions on what part to get for this? Thanks,

Hi all, Recently the XJ has developed a new issue. Usually it will fire with 1 second of cranking or so, and likely no more than 2 revs of the motor. Recently, cranking is taking 10-14 seconds when the jeep has sat for more than an hour. If it is shut down and restarted quickly, it will...

Tampa_XJ, when your compressor cut out, did the fan also stop running?

My 99' has similar issues not quite as bad. In mine the compressor will just stop running for a few minutes on the drive home and then sporadically kick back in. It is temperature related in my case, as this is not an issue if temps are below ~85* or so. Last night I was able to make it home...

The wire from the last head bolt to the firewall is a ground strap. Its used to keep the engine and body electrically connected and neutral.

I did get the front seal out without removing the timing cover. I used a small set of channel lock pliers to wedge up underneath the seal and pry it out. Worked pretty well once I was able to get some leverage on it. New RMS is installed, new oil pump is assembled with the new pickup tube...

All, I know fixing oil leaks on a jeep is sort of a futile effort, but I'm making an attempt at it. 99' XJ 4.0 AW4 NP 231. 185K miles now, stock except for after market tube front bumper. Took a bunch of work to get the oil pan off but succeeded last night. This morning, got the rear main...