Recent content by Jeepedo129

No not a huge difference. Wasn’t great, maybe 13-15 average. I was getting about 230-240 miles out of a tank so. However I didn’t do a ton of freeway, mostly around town.

Just an update to this thread. I got the engine running back in august. Took quite a bit of figuring to get the cam to cooperate. ended up talking with an engine builder, he recommended doing a cranking compression test at each setting on the adjustable crank gear. Which ever degree setting on...

I got almost 8k out of the engine, before it threw a code. And on installation of this cam and my last cam, I used comp cams assembly lube liberally on every moving part, primed the oil pump with a flat head screw driver in a drill motor. Push rods were brand new out of the box, and double...

What should I look at with the valves? Before I put the head on I went through and lapped each valve to make sure the seats were still good and clean. As far as the springs go, I could call the shop and see if he remembers what kind of springs he installed in there, but that was almost 2 years...

I have a spare ecu I was planning on sending out. Maybe Ill through that in there and see what happens.

on the old cam, yes I did the 30min break in with comps break in oil. the new one, I haven't been able to pull 2500rpm because of the misfires and no power. which makes me uneasy about the longevity of this new cam. The old cam failure was on one lobe, #4 exhaust. This same cylinder had the...

The machine shop put in new valves and lapped them to the seats, new seals, springs,(not sure which springs, which ever spring he recommended with the cam) caps and retainers, and he checked the guides, i think he cleaned and honed them? So nothing fancy, Basically a stock head, just freshened up.

close, maybe 3/8" to 1/2". but I also have a oreilly brand clutch that is thicker than the OEM one. With the OEM you would probably have and inch or so.

had about 12-13ohms across all of them, I even swapped out my bosch set and put the stock ones back in, just to see if there was a change, but no joy. also ran through the vacuum lines with carb cleaner and didn't find a leak anywhere under the hood.

Yeah I rang out the wires to each of the injectors to the ecu. And I went back and used the factory fsm prints just Incase my wiring print had a mistake on it. The engine did run with the new wiring harness before I tore the engine apart for the new cam. That’s whats kinda pushing me toward the...

My deck clearance is .010" so I used an indicator right on the center of the piston to verify TDC on my wheel. unfortunately the wheel I ordered ended up being a 13" wheel and not a 18" wheel like i hopped. your push rod set up is better. I placed a push rod in the hold and placed the pointer...

And I can understand those variables, but I measured several times and got -4 all around, not just ICL. I didn't want to drop the dough on the timing set, so I made sure I double and triple checked my ICL. But this is why I got the adjustable set to bring the cam to the card. From what comp...

you have almost the exact same stroker I do. I had overheating issues as well, and tried a lot of the same things you had mentioned. what ended up fixing mine was the factory 2 core "HD dessert" radiator. Its pricy, but its thick, and with radiators thickness is key. You can have 10 cores, but...

posting this here hoping to get some advice or experience. I'm currently having some installation issues with my comp cams 68-232-4. This is the second 232-4 cam that I've installed into my stroker. last time I just installed it the factory way, dot to dot. Engine ran fine, however this time...

I am on my second 68-232-4. I didn't have any complaints with the first one, but the #4 exhaust lobe flattened out on me, but I'm pretty sure that was do to other issues. I just reinstalled a new one, and just as some advice, the cam card that comes with that cam is most likely going to be...