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Hey Naxja... I've been having some insurance issues as of late and I will be returning my Cherokee back to stock height (I know I know :puke:)
But I want to be saver than sorry...
I'm only going to be running 235/75/15s but will an exploder diff still fit under a stock height truck or will I...
Well I answered my own Q:
^ That picture is of an LJ Low Pinion D30 and you can see 4 of the 6 bolts holding the carrier together
^ That picture is referenced from pirate in 2004 so it looks like the one I was looking at is of a weaker older design
I asked about the age and mileage of the unit and the seller said it has 20,000kms on it.... but that doesn't mean it's not 5-6 years old or more if it's from a trail rig
I'll see what I can dig up
I'm looking at buying a truetrac (used) but from the photos I see from online vendors; the carrier is assembled using 6 bolts to hold the helical gears in the carrier. The picture I have of the unit display only 3 bolts assembling the carrier internals
Did Eaton update/upgrade the carrier...
Couldn't edit last post...
Replaced Battery Temp Sensor since the Ohm reading was not within spec (reading @ 5k) no change...
Now I'm just throwing parts at it since I don't know wtf is wrong with it... I will be doing 5-90's battery cable upgrade and that is my last saving grace... after...
Thanks for the link... I have read it before and re-read it last week... I have already been in touch with 5-90 to eliminate some of the "problem areas" :yelclap:
Updates but NO good news...
-Fusable link wire sheath was cracked so we cut/soldered/shrink tubed the wire to prevent further corrosion... I want to replace this
-Back probed the green wire going into the PCM and only managed to detect 10v going to the computer so we cut the wire and ran a...
I work at a Autoparts Chain store lol so I am aware of the junk quality and alternator testing machines which are crap (along with midtronics)
I'll keep ya posted tonight on the results of the diag I'll be having done... :doh:
What kind of track bar are you running? My Re1600 used to clunk until I made a double shear mount for it... The heim ended up walking around and wallowing out the stock mount but not enough to induce death wobble
Is this a single click/clunk or continuous with brake pressure?
Yea... I realize that but since the alternator is brand new as of yesterday I believe the alternator is fine... I bet the old one is fine too (minus the bearing starting to go). I'll keep you guys posted.
Nope... and that's what is boggling my mind LOL! I'll try that test today... I honestly hope it's just crappy wiring so I can upgrade all of it... It doesn't seem that PCM Modules fail all too often so I want to try and rule that out for now... :doh:
There was nothing referenced in Mitchell for testing that sensor in the tray... How would I go about testing it? I have seen it but not sure of it's purpose (besides what you have told me)
What would happen if I were to disconnect it?
I should also mention that I am running a Purple Haze...
Unfortunately I do not have access to a FSM... as I am not the original owner of the vehicle and it is long gone. That is why I resorted to Mitchell but it is so vague... it says test the black/grey/white connectors at the PCM yet it does not explain which wires control what...
I have been searching and still am but I haven't found many people sharing the same symptoms...
Specs
4.0, auto, 1996
What I have done, warrantied battery (new within the last month). I just replaced the alternator tonight (ZJ "136 amp" unit) since I was sure this was the problem.
Turns out...
1.the first problem is the machine
2. lack of experience
3. 1/4" to 20 gauge isn't the greatest idea and is excessive weight for nothing... 1/8" with a strip of 1/8" angle welded to the outside edge of the rocker is plenty strong to take hits
4. I welded my 1/8" in with .035 wire and flux...