Recent content by Firyls

There should be a total of 4 ring terminals but 7 fusible links. 1. a. Blue = Alternator 2. a. Green = Ignition Switch b. Orange = Fuel Pump Relay 3. a. Green = Fog Lamps/ Fuse Box / Engine Lamp b. Green = ? (think it also goes to fuse box for other components) 4. a. Orange = B+...

I think it would only be the starter relay if he was getting power to the Ignition switch, but nothing nothing happens when turning the key. The fusible links and battery lead all screw onto the same post on the starter relay, so really the fusible links have a direct path to the battery, the...

If I remember correctly the interior lights don't get their power from the ignition switch they're on their own independent circuit. I'm going to guess that its probably a fusible link . Near the starter relay is a group of fusible links, the one that goes to the Ignition switch is fried.

I'm with old_man on the distributor indexing. Even if your absolutely sure you put the replacement distributor in exactly how the original was I would still double check it.

I'm surprised there Isnt a write up on that. Its pretty easy. 1.) Disconnect the battery. (there's a constant 12v going to the keyless entry module, easier to disconnect so you don't blow any fuses) 2.) Unscrew both visor clips, once you do that the plastic housing should pull away from the...

I had this same exact thing happen on my 89 a few days ago where the engine would fire up but once I release the key from the start position it would die off, ended up being a bad Relay, fuel pump relay I think. You mentioned in the first post that you did a relay swap (not sure if it was just...

Check out, and join the RENIXPower yahoo group, I do believe they have the information your looking for.

If we are talking about the same box as the last picture from this thread: http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=244800922 . Then yes its just the IR receiver for keyless entry. Dont think XJs got a ceiling mounted Temp/Compass readout until the 90's.

Picture is blurry, but if that's the little plastic housing between the sun visors; then that should be the receiver for a factory Remote key FOB to unlock the doors. I was able to replace the old factory one with this little guy Ebay .

My Original 1989 Owners manual says 20-60psi for normal city driving, 45-60psi for HWY driving, and 13psi hot engine at idle is satisfactory. And noted at the end "Consistent lower readings indicate possible malfunction"

For anyone that might be following this thread, I figured it out this morning, a previous owner had spliced together the Yellow wire (ignition), and one of the orange wires. I am guessing a previous owner thought the broken computer issue was a fuel delivery issue (as did I when I first got...

Took the time to sit with a multimeter and properly repaired the original computer, and it now works as far as engine performance, but has joined the other 2 computers in not shutting down the engine when the ignitions is off. So is looking like the original faulty computer was masking another...

Is your cooling system working properly? My thermostat had broken in my XJ, and it was actually running too cool (under 150). I replaced the thermostat and flushed the system so the engine would run all the time at 200-210, and as a result I gained an additional 2-3mpg hwy.

Did a little testing at lunch, if I kill the power from the Ignition Switch (pin 11) to the computer ignition in (Pin B8), the engine will still remain running. Does this sound like normal operation, or is the computer supposed to be getting continuous voltage from B8 to keep the engine on...

Thats what I plan on doing. From what the wiring diagrams show the following all get power from the yellow ignition wire: 1.) Computer - B8 2.) Ignition Ctrl Module 3.) Resistor Pack 4.) Trans Ctrl Unit In-Line Fuses 5.) Fuel Pump Relay 6.) O2 HTR Relay So I have somewhere to start. Ill...