Recent content by db209_2000

I agree. Some parts are just bad out of the box. Some brands are just bad altogether! I'll never use a "Standard" brand sensor of any type ever again.

The code you're getting is what tells you which sensor is bad. P0132 is Bank 1 Upstream, so front bank before the cat per the picture. Thank you Mnoeltne!

At some point did the vehicle ever have the update done for the headlight flicker when the fan comes on? (this applies to 97-up) If so, there's a relay box behind the left headlight in line with the fan motor. Just thought you should know.

Factory/Mopar accessory tow harness, or aftermarket? Seen MANY problems caused by aftermarket "solid state" boxes melting internally. Could be a blown bulb. I've seen the filaments touching the wrong posts and back feeding.

I've yet to see anyone mention the steering stabilizer. Only $30-$35 for a relatively quick fix. I've replaced tons of these to fix the wobble. That's why they're there.

In all my years as a tech I've only seen one type of relay fail, and it was the PGM-FI Main in Hondas. I had an issue with my fog light switch. I had to replace it twice due to internal melting. The last one I ordered came with a new subharness and relay that went in right behind the switch.

Doesn't matter how fast I'm going. 4 month old electric fan, 6 month old mech fan clutch. It's definitely the compressor. Thanks Oban. Ivan, since I can't find a clutch & coil to rebuild with, and RockAuto having a new compressor for only $150, I think I'll replace the 14 year old compressor...

Finally, a day without rain! Got a chance to really get into it. IH392 you were right, the low side feels hot due to underhood temps. It's not the pressure switches either. I drove home with everything off. Got home, popped the hood and turned on the A/C. The electric fan turned on, but the...

Personally I would just go with a used low mileage 4.0L. New water pump, t-stat, rear main seal, and valve cover gasket too of course.

I wish mine wasn't so rusted :( Damn northeast salt.

The crank sensor you got from Advance, was it a Standard brand part? Very bad experiences with Standard brand electronic parts. You'll install them and wind up with another issue altogether.

I wholeheartedly agree with this. Most of your braking is done with the front on ANY type of vehicle.

I've had to cut and patch many a Jeep because of the rust forming at the connection to the rear hose (ZJ's, XJ's & WJ's). It's really not just a Jeep issue either. Make sure you use flared connections, not compression fittings as they're illegal for use in brake lines.

Unfortunately you do need to get the mini cats replaced. Good thing you're not in NY, your car would fail inspection simply for the check engine light not working.

Thanks for the advice. I'll check it out some more today at home, unfortunately my shop is closed on Saturdays for July and August.