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You have to repair the problem. You MIL came back on because there is still a problem. You know after you repair the problem, you have to drive it long enough to get at least all but two readness codes before you can get an emissions inspection in NC. If you clear the DTCs and go right to...
Nothing hard. You undo the quick disconnect fuel line, vac line, remove the small bolt and pull the regulator off the rail. Be sure to lube the o-ring on the new regulator. Use silicone grease or Vaseline for lube.
There are no connections in the under dash/evaporator. It is your evaporator. Evaporator leaks are a virtual guarantee on XJs along with virtually all Chrysler cars and trucks. It's just the way things are.
BTW, stop using A/C stop leak! You're creating issues down the road by using it.
You don't want to use a test light. Use an LED. If you use anything when testing that draws more current then the injector, you risk damaging the PCM.
You can buy LEDs at a "Radio Shack" type place.
You seem to have touched every part in the engine bay in a short amount of time. There is no telling what you have moved or damaged through the internet.
One thing to check... When you changed the CPS, did you secure the weather-pak connector away from the exhaust manifold? It can easily...
That looks like the same yoke I used for my SYE I did in '05. You can get that same yoke for aprox $80. Part #3103-27CV. Avail @ Six States Distributors, Inc.
http://www.jeepanywhere.org/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=1435&PN=1
My MM 8k works great. It's slow, but why do you need to go quickly? You have a wire rope under high tension and your Jeep in a stuck/bad situation. There is no need to speed.